 The artistry of the grape |
I didn’t mean to pay Bargetto short shrift in my last posting. I was originally introduced to their Chaucer’s line of Olallieberry and Raspberry wines, as well as the only domestic Mead of which I am aware. Some years later, on my first visit to their winery, I learned that they produced an intriguing range of Italian varietals (including their aforementioned 2002 La Vita), along with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and other familiar grapes. Even though my quest for their excellent Dolcetto proved futile this time, I still returned back to San Francisco with a bottle of their 2004 Santa Cruz Mountains Nebbiolo to share on our Saturday night excursion.
The Ginkgo Girl and I joined fellow boarding school survivor Jon Welles and his wife for The International Theater Ensemble’s multimedia adaptation of Nikolai Gogol’s Нос (The Nose) at San Francisco’s Phoenix Theatre. The Nebbiolo proved a worthy complement to Paulette’s pre-performance hors d’œuvres—just what we needed to hold us over until we ventured out to dinner at the new Heaven’s Dog. |
I’m told there is something propitious about the name, and it certainly has no bearing on the cuisine. Über-successful restaurateur Charles Phan has deviated here from his native Vietnamese cuisine, but proves himself equally adept at what he describes as Chinese comfort food. Moreover, there is a common dedication to sustainable design and cuisine not only between this restaurant and Sostevinobile, but with star mixologist Thad Vogler’s upcoming Bar Agricole and with Bardessono’s Phil Sherburne, who sourced much of the recycle materials built into the decor. The evening’s singular revelation came, however, from Your West Coast Oenophile’s adroit choice of a wine to accompany the eight or so menu selections that adorned our table. The 2007 Scholium Project Verdelho Naucratis Last Slough Vineyard is a wine boasts far more than a protracted name. Though principally a Portuguese varietal, winemaker Abe Schoener has crafted his expression, from Scholium’s Suisun Valley vineyards, more as a “straight Grüner Veltliner knock-off.” Let him call it what he will, it made for superb pairing.
I look forward to savoring more of Scholium Project’s wildly-experimental œnology in the not-too-distant future.