{"id":50,"date":"2010-12-19T17:43:00","date_gmt":"2010-12-19T17:43:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=50"},"modified":"2010-12-19T17:43:00","modified_gmt":"2010-12-19T17:43:00","slug":"maybe-i-need-to-take-out-palate-insurance","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=50","title":{"rendered":"Maybe I need to take out palate insurance"},"content":{"rendered":"

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November turned out to be another one of those months for Your West Coast Oenophile<\/b>, which is why I landed up starting this entry in December. Sometimes my duties for Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font> make me wonder how sustainable I am. But I get to drink some pretty special wine quite often. At least I usually think I do\u2026
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My first jaunt was to a special Friday night reception at Stags\u2019 Leap Winery<\/a> for the relaunch of their Artist in Residence <\/i>program. With the good folks at Treasury Wine Estates<\/a> providing shuttle service from San Francisco\u2019s Ferry Building, this offer seemed too good to pass up\u2014I haven\u2019t had the pleasure of visiting Napa with a designated driver in well over 10 years!
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The trip up to the winery proved more than comfortable, given I can only remember 10-15 minute segments at either end, wrapped around a much-needed, hour-long nap. Oddly, though, I seemed to be the only rider connected to the wine industry. Everyone else on the bus either worked as a travel writer or belonged to the Luxury Marketing Council<\/a>, an association with which I had no previous familiarity. While this anomaly didn\u2019t quite make me feel like a nun on an Esalen retreat\u2014after all, the wine world is supposedly my milieu; still, finding common ground among my fellow passengers certainly seemed a stretch. Nevertheless, I did collect some business cards, just in case I\u2019m ever in the market for a new yacht.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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In spite of the Friday night commute traffic, we arrived in front of the turret gracing the winery\u2019s famed Manor House<\/a> in under 90 minutes. Movie fans may well recognize this 120-year-old landmark as the home of my earliest childhood crush, Hayley Mills<\/a>, in <\/font><\/font>Pollyanna<\/i><\/b>, or <\/font><\/font><\/font>perhaps from This Earth is Mine<\/b><\/i>, but my attention was quickly drawn to the crisp 2008 Viognier<\/b> we were served upon entering.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Details from Portrait of a Community<\/i><\/font><\/div>\n<\/td>\n
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Inside this converted residence, attendees were f\u00eated with canap\u00e9s and other appetizers <\/font><\/font><\/font>exquisitely paired to the 2008 Reserve Chardonnay<\/b> and Stags\u2019 Leap\u2019s signature Petite Sirah, the 2006 Ne Cede Malis<\/b>. Throughout the Manor House, portraits of several wine country luminaries adorned the walls, a remounting of Napa Valley: Portrait of a Community<\/a>, the series 1998\u2019s Artist in Residence <\/i>Patrick McFarlin had composed during his tenure<\/font><\/font>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Outside
\non the porch, guests assembled for a brief history of Stags\u2019 Leap,
\naccompanied by a recitation by poet Theresa Whitehill, and the debut of
\nthe 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, an impressive vintage from a
\nsomewhat mercurial year. Oddly, the chronicle of the winery offered rich
\ninsights into the winery\u2019s stewardship by the Chase family, followed by
\nthe Granges (several of whom were in attendance)<\/i>, yet elided
\nover the period when Carl Doumani brought the winery into prominence and
\npioneered its focus on Petite Sirah. Nonetheless, with the current
\ncorporate ownership systematically enhancing the winery\u2019s focus and
\nupgrading its facilities, we were introduced to new winemaker
\nChristopher Paubert and treated to an overview of his \u0153nological
\nphilosophy.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Christopher led us on a tour of the new wine caves, where current Artist in Residence, New York photographer Jefferson Hayman hung a selection of his photos detailing the varying aspects of Stags\u2019 Leap. We enjoyed a barrel sampling from of the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Christopher\u2019s first, then collected gift bags that generously include a bottle of the aforementioned 2006 vintage. Needless to say, the ride back to San Francisco became a lot more festive than on the way up!<\/p>\n
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Alas, I did not have the luxury of being chauffeured the next day as I again crossed the Bay Bridge to attend the 2010 Harvest Rocks<\/b><\/a> at Rock Wall<\/a>, a winery that has frequently appeared here. What can I say? They put on a good party, they have a convenient location with an incredible vista on fog-free days, and they consistently make excellent and intriguing wines. This afternoon\u2019s gathering lacked their more esoteric endeavors, like the 2007 Tannat Contra Costa County<\/b>, the utterly compelling 2008 Montepulciano<\/b>, or their 2009 Sparkling Grenache Ros\u00e9<\/b> (although winemaker Shauna Rosenblum did put on an entertaining demonstration of d\u00e9gorgement<\/b>\u2014the freezing and ejection of the sediment cap that forms during riddling\u2014one of the more animated stages of m\u00e9thode champenoise<\/a><\/b>)<\/i>. The more mainstream varietals that they did pour demonstrated an overall consistent quality, both with their red and their white selections, and easily could stand with wines at twice their suggested price.
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I found myself particularly fond of the 2009 Viognier Monterey County<\/b>,
\na bottling that further exemplified how California wineries are at last getting
\nhold of how to structure this wine\u2014a well-balanced, superb
\nexpression of the grape.<\/font><\/font><\/font> Similarly, the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Lake County<\/b> displayed admirable restraint, neither too grassy nor too citrus. And with three Chards to taste side-by-side, the 2008 Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay <\/b>clearly stood above the two 2009 bottlings.
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Despite its lineage, Rock Wall isn\u2019t striving to be the reincarnation of Rosenblum Cellars<\/a> (no matter how much Diageo succeeds in eviscerating the pioneering Alameda facility)<\/i>. Still, it would be nigh impossible for them not to produce a lineup with numerous Zins, headlined this afternoon by a simply spectacular 2007 Zinfandel Reserve Sonoma County<\/b>. While the successive Sonoma bottling in 2008 did not shine quite as brightly, I did also greatly enjoy the 2008 Jesse\u2019s Vineyard Zinfandel<\/b> from Contra Costa County.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Given Rock Wall\u2019s versatility, I would have expected a bit more from their Cabs. The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley<\/b> seemed a tad lackluster, however, while the extremely approachable 2007<\/b> Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley<\/b> still lagged behind the numerous exceptional wines this vintage has produced. On the other hand, their 2008 Petite Sirah Mendocino County,<\/b> the varietal that introduced me to this venture two years ago, showed every bit as solid as my initial exposure had been. <\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Before closing out with the dessert selections, I did partake in a plate of the tangy barbecue whipped up by Big Ray “the Armadillo” Green. With sightlines across the Bay to downtown San Francisco and AT&T Park<\/a>, it took considerable restraint not to tweak this native of Euliss, Texas, a town only 7 miles from <\/font>Rangers Ballpark<\/font><\/a>, about the just-concluded World Series, but great ribs have been known to inspire discretion. Fittingly, the post-prandial wines, the 2007 Late Harvest Riesling <\/b>and the 2008 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc<\/b> proved as fitting a cap to the event as an Edgar Renteria home run, and with that I retreated to the comforts of my championship home turf.<\/p>\n
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Rock Wall has been a mainstay of the Urban Wineries that comprise the East Bay Vintners Alliance<\/a>. Another member that is garnering considerable attention of late has been Urban Legend<\/a>, which hosted a Release Party to celebrate the inaugural in-house harvest at their recently completed facility. While I\u2019ve been able to taste one or two of their wines at collective tastings before, I hadn\u2019t really had the opportunity to explore the wide range of varietals they produce, nor focus on their wines exclusively. All of which made trekking to West Oakland\u2019s warehouse district rather compelling (though perhaps more wisely attempted during daylight hours)<\/i>.
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Wineries that operate in converted storage sheds or light industrial parks tend to be quite utilitarian\u2014not exactly the pastoral setting one finds in Paso Robles or the Shenandoah Valley. But the lack of surrounding vineyards or imposing architecture did nothing to detract from the quality of the wine, as Marilee and Steve Shaffer readily demonstrated. A polished tasting bar greeted their guests in the antechamber of their facility\u2014a singular welcoming gesture, to be sure\u2014while stacked tiers of barrels holding the just-completed 2010 crush filled the main area. Eager tasting room assistants served up the organically grown 2009 Lake County Sauvignon Blanc<\/b>, the sole white pour this evening, <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Moving onto the reds, the 2008 Ironworks<\/b> blended Nebbiolo with 20% Sangiovese for a soft, approachable wine; I held similar fondness for the 2009 Lake County Mourv\u00e8dre<\/b>. A more robust Rh\u00f4ne expression came from the 2009 Lolapalooza<\/b>, their take on Grenache. The strongest expression of the GMS elements, however, was the 2009 Amador County Syrah<\/b>, a wine that craved chocolate pairing.
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Urban Legend covers a lot of ground, viticulturally speaking. Their sole foray with Iberian varietals (discounting interpreting their Mourv\u00e8dre as Monastrell or the Grenache as Garnacha) <\/i>was a delightful, peppery 2009 Tempranillo<\/b> from Clarksburg. Bordelaise vintages included an amiable 2009 Petit Verdot<\/b> from Mendocino and the Right Bank-style 2009 Uptown,<\/b> blending 60% Merlot with 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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I had been seduced earlier this summer by the 2008 Teroldego<\/b> and hoped this or the subsequent vintage would be poured at the event, but I will have to wait for a subsequent visit. Nonetheless, Italian varietals flowed in force this afternoon; released from the dominant Nebbiolo of the Ironworks, their straight 2008 Lake County Sangiovese<\/b> proved delightful in its own right. The 2008 Barbera <\/b>from Clarksburg seemed a bit sweet for my taste, but the 2009 Dolcetto<\/b> from El Dorado County was a masterful bottling (as well as the strongest candidate I could find for an ideal Turkey Day pairin
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Steve and Marilee put out a smorgasbord of appetizers to complement their wines\u2014fitting, indeed, for the inevitable smorgasbord of attendees one finds at East Bay wine tastings (Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> finds such multicultural interest in wine most telling to our core mission of promot<\/i>ing wines for their universal appeal)<\/i>. And so its seemed only right to conclude the evening with their Grapefiti<\/b>, a non-vintage blend of just about everything Urban Legend puts in a barrel\u2014not quite a field blend but definitely not a haphazard assemblage, either. A most enjoyable wine from a most enjoyable venture.<\/p>\n
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My readers know I made no bones about my disappointment in this year\u2019s Pinot on the River<\/a>. For weeks, I assuaged myself with the anticipation of Farallon\u2019s annual PinotFest<\/a>, held just before Thanksgiving in the safe and dry<\/b><\/i> confines of the Kensington Park Hotel. Now, most wine critics, myself included, do find single varietal tastings somewhat challenging\u2014we all reach a point where it becomes extremely difficult to distinguish among the various labels on hand. This tasting, however, completely flummoxed me\u2014none of the wines stood out!<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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I started to think that I might have been permanently affected by the October debacle\u2014perhaps I would never be able to appreciate Pinot unless my feet were sunk 6″ deep in mud! Then, I realized something almost as horrific was afoot\u2014my palate had gone on strike!<\/b><\/i> I recognized many of these wines; I had tasted them before and delighted in their nuances. This day, I could barely distinguish a thing beyond an initial recognition of the varietal. Fortunately, this setback turned out to be ephemeral, but any hope of finding an amazing new discovery this day was shot.
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And so I can only offer an amalgamation of what I did sample, with apologies all around. First up, I wound my way over to the table for Bonaccorsi<\/a>, a Santa Barbara winery specializing in Viognier, Syrah, and, of course, Pinot. Principal Michael Bonaccorsi cut his teeth as the director of Spago\u2019s wine program in Los Angeles; today, his venture debuted at PinotFest with their 2007 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b>, a wine even my debilitated palate could not fail to appreciate, alongside the 2008 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills<\/b> and the 2008 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara<\/b>. Also from the Central Coast, Drake<\/a> poured a striking duo: the 2008 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard H Block<\/b> and the superb 2008 Les Galets Pinot Noir <\/b>from Arroyo Grande Valley.
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Just up the coast, Fiddlehead Cellars<\/a> offered a pair of wines from its Fiddlestix Vineyard in Santa Rita Hills: the 2007 Seven Twenty Eight Pinot Noir<\/b> (the name derives from the mile marker on Santa Rosa Road)<\/i> and the 2007 Lollapalooza<\/b> (not to be confused with the Lolapalooza from Urban Legend)<\/i>. Fiddlehead is a bit of an anomaly, in that it produces only Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc and that it manages vineyards in both California and in Oregon, the latter which was not showcased here. Siduri Wines<\/a> did contrast the two parts of its bifurcated operations, pouring their 2009 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b> from the Santa Lucia Highlands alongside the 2007 Willamette Blanc de Pinot Noir<\/b>, a truly special handcrafted effort.
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I began to realize my palate was rather askew this afternoon when I visited with Skewis<\/a> at the next table over. I had sampled these Pinots with considerable pleasure quite recently in Geyserville; today, I felt almost indifferent towards them. I have long known I can rely on Skewis as a benchmark for excellence in Pinot Noir, and while I was willing to allow that one wine could seem off from my previous evaluation, how could I sip my way through such wines as the 2000 Montgomery Vineyard Pinot Noir <\/b>or the 2008 Anderson Valley Reserve Pinot Noir <\/b>and not experience a tinge of elation? I began fearing my libido would be the next to go.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Nonetheless, I soldiered on, hoping my taste buds might somehow recover before the afternoon concluded. Newcomer Beaux Fr\u00e8res<\/a> from Oregon offered a nice array of their wines, starting with 2008 The Beaux Fr\u00e8res Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b>. This Pinot-only operation from Newberg, Oregon also poured their 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir<\/b> and a new release, the 2009 Les Cousins Pinot Noir<\/b>. From nearby McMinnville, former Stags\u2019 Leap winemaker Robert Brittan<\/a> paired the 2007 Basalt Block Pinot Noir<\/b> and 2007 Gestalt Block Pinot Noir<\/b> produced at his eponymous Syrah- & Pinot-focused winery. Meanwhile, one of Oregon\u2019s tried & true wine pioneers, Adelsheim<\/a>, showcased both their 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir<\/b> and the coveted 2008 Elizabeth\u2019s Reserve Pinot Noir<\/b>.
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Quite a number of wineries from our northern neighbor make the annual trek to this event. Among those I enjoy with regularity were Domaine Drouhin<\/a>, with its 2007 Cuv\u00e9e Laur\u00e8ne<\/b>, one of their twin Estate Pinots, and the 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir<\/b>. The ever-revered Domaine Serene<\/a> sampled a pair of its wines, the 2006 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir<\/b> and the equally-acclaimed 2007 Mark Bradford Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b>. Soter Vineyards<\/a> made a return appearance to feature their latest, the 2008 North Valley Pinot Noir<\/b> and the 2008 Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Tony Soter\u2019s former venture, \u00c9tude<\/a>, continued his legacy with their Carneros bottlings, including the 2008 Estate Pinot Noir<\/b>. Just north of Carneros, Hendry<\/a> represents a rare winery within the Napa Valley AVA producing a 2007 Estate Pinot Noir<\/b>. Back in Carneros, Gloria Ferrer<\/a> tends to be better known for their sparkling wines, but comported themselves admirably here with both their 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir<\/b> and the 2006 Jos\u00e9 S. Ferrer Pinot Noir<\/b>.
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I\u2019ve long relished the sparkling wines Sonoma\u2019s Iron Horse<\/a> produces, so was more than happy to sample their 2005 Brut Ros\u00e9<\/b> alongside their 2008 Estate Pinot Noir<\/b> (a wine I feel sure I would have appreciated with an intact palate)<\/i>. I do know, from the CCOF tasting<\/a> in October, that I highly appreciated the selection of Pinots from Alma Rosa<\/a>, Richard Sanford\u2019s followup to his eponymous winery; certainly, there was no disappointment either with the 2008 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills<\/b> or the top-rated 2007 Pinot Noir La Encantade Vineyard<\/b>. And I <\/font><\/font>almost would have been willing to defer any assessment of the wines Au Bon Climat<\/a> poured to previous accolades from other sources, but I nonetheless managed to sample the 2006 Barham Mendelsohn Russian River Pinot Noir<\/b>, the 2007 Bien Nacido Historical Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/font><\/b>, the filial <\/font>2007 Pinot Noir-Isabelle<\/font><\/b>, and, with a name almost as convoluted as Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>, the 2007 La Bauge Au-Dessus Estate Pinot Noir<\/font><\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Another acclaimed Pinot producer, Merry Edwards<\/a>, offered a tantalizing glimpse into her portfolio with the 2008 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir<\/b> and her 2008 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir<\/b>. I managed to sample but one of Robert Sinskey<\/a>\u2019s fabled organic Pinots, the 2007 Pinot Noir Three Amigos Vineyards<\/b>, and only the 2008 La Neblina<\/b> from Radio-Coteau<\/a>, a winery I first encountered at last year\u2019s tasting. I relish Greenwood Ridge<\/a> for their biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc, but subsequently discovered their Pinot at last year\u2019s PinotFest<\/i><\/b>; my recollections made me eager to try their 2007 Pinot Noir Mendocino Ridge<\/b> this time round.
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I opted for the 2008 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Occidental Ridge Vineyard<\/b> from Failla<\/a>\u2019s two selections, while choosing the 2008 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County<\/b> from Costa de Oro<\/a>. I hadn\u2019t had the chance to catch up with Byron<\/a> since their whirlwind of ownership changes a couple of years back, so I lingered long enough to sample both the 2008 Monument Pinot Noir <\/b>and the 2008 Nielsen Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b> while discussing the evolution of their winemaking under the stewardship of Jackson Family Wines.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Down in Lompoc, Melville<\/a> operates a highly concentrated endeavor that limits itself to (and excels in) <\/i>Chardonnay, Syrah, and, of course, Pinot Noir. For PinotFest<\/b><\/i>, they poured three of their more noteworthy efforts: the 2009 Estate Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills<\/b> and both the 2009 Estate Pinot Noir Carrie’s <\/b>and the 2009 Estate Pinot Noir Terrace’s<\/b>, which are scheduled for release next spring. Melville\u2019s winemaker Greg Brewer has also heads up a Burgundian-focused project with Italian varietal specialist Steve Clifton (from Palmina<\/a>)<\/i>, fittingly named Brewer-Clifton<\/a>. I enjoyed both the 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills<\/b> and the <\/font><\/font>2009 Pinot Noir Mount Carmel<\/b>, though even my palsied palate could sense that these wines were still quite young.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Certainly, if time had permitted, I would have brought myself to sample the numerous other wineries who have made this event so splendid year after year. After all, it wasn\u2019t that I hadn\u2019t found nearly all the wines I tried this afternoon commendable\u2014rather, it was an inability to discern the distinguishing characteristics of the various vintages that left me in such a quandary. I recall how my good friend Carlo Middione had to close Vivande<\/a>, his temple to Southern Italian cuisine, earlier this year, after an automobile accident rendered his sense of smell and taste permanently impaired; even though my own dilemma turned out fortunately to be a fleeting (albeit excruciating) <\/i>moment, I can well empathize with his frustration. After all, it has been the exquisite subtlety of my palate that has carried on the vision for Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> for nearly two years.<\/p>\n
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Fortunately, my taste buds revived with a vengeance in time to take in the second installment of San Francisco Vintners Market<\/a>, my final marathon for the month of November. Instead, the debacle of my <\/font><\/font>palatal <\/font><\/font>paral<\/font><\/font>y<\/font><\/font><\/font>sis<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> gave way to the perplexity of perambulating the aisles of a trade show that did not even provide attendees with a booth guide or tasting map. As is my wont, I had deciphered the list of attending wineries from the promoters\u2019 website and highlighted those I hoped to acquaint with Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>\u2019s wine program; even with this targeted agenda, the task of finding their tables inside the enormous Festival Pavilion at Fort Mason became a game of sleuthing.
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Working blindly, I first stumbled upon Rua<\/a>, a small, single bottling venture from the consultancy at Wines West. The 2008 Rua Napa Valley<\/b> is a Right Bank-style Bordelaise wine derived from a co-fermentation of Cabernet Franc and Merlot grown on the right side of the Carneros AVA. Cultivar<\/a>, a winery out of Rutherford, offered a most impressive 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon <\/b>(especially considering its $25 price point)<\/i>.<\/font> <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Sometimes a label can seem so evocative, one wonders whether the wine can match the impression it gives. Despite the allure of David Pizzimenti\u2019s Mendoza<\/i><\/b>, TAJ Cellars<\/a> managed to <\/font><\/font><\/font>exceed expectations with the 2008 Zinfandel<\/b> and an exceptional 2007 Syrah<\/b>. Similarly, the classical allusion of a goddess bearing two \u03bf\u1f30\u03bd\u03bf\u03c7\u03cc\u03b1\u03b9<\/b> (wine jugs)<\/i> adorning the bottles of Mercy Vineyards<\/a>\u2019 artisan wines heralded a much-pleasing 2008 Syrah Zabala Vineyard<\/b> from Arroyo Seco. And the appeal of its Papyrus Condensed lettering superimposed on a swath of broad-stroked sunset colors hardly belied the delights of the striking Italian varietals from Plymouth\u2019s Bella Grace<\/a>: their 2008 Vermentino<\/b>, the 2008 Pinot Grigio<\/b>, and the 2009 Primitivo<\/b>, as well as its cousin, the 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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As with April\u2019s Vintners Market<\/b>, one of the true pleasures of the event was discovering a number of microproducers like Evidence Wines<\/a><\/font>, whose 250 case production consists solely of its 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, a meaty selection from Knights Valley with 10% Malbec, 8% Petit Verdot, and 7% Petite Sirah. Hamel Family Wines<\/a> topped out 290 cases of the 2006 Pamelita<\/b>, an estate Cabernet Sauvignon from their sustainably farmed, <\/font><\/font>one acre <\/font><\/font><\/font> vineyard in Sonoma Valley. Along with 49 cases of Sauvignon Blanc, Heibel Ranch Vineyards<\/a> bottled a whopping 188 cases of its proprietary 2007 Lappa\u2019s<\/b>, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, <\/font><\/font>Petite Sirah<\/font><\/font>, <\/font><\/font>Cabernet Franc, and <\/font><\/font>Syrah<\/font><\/font><\/font>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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All told, Flying Horse<\/a> has produced an inventory of nearly 2,000 cases among its three vintages from 2005-07. With Denis Malbec consulting, the 2005 Napa Valley <\/font><\/font><\/font>Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, 2006 Napa Valley Petite Sirah<\/b>, and 2007 Sauvignon Blanc<\/b> all proved to be well-structured, memorable wines. J&J Cellars<\/a> is the premium line from A Cellar Full of Noise<\/a>\u2019s James Judd; I found their 2009 Tempranillo Ros\u00e9<\/b> more than refreshing while being pleasantly surprised by the complexity of their NV Autumn Flight Barbera<\/b>.
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Vintners Market<\/b> featured a VIP section with many of the same premium wineries that also poured in April. I was pleased to meet Vito Bialla<\/a> and taste his 2008 Cabernet<\/b>, a Craig MacLean vinification tempered with 14% Merlot. Nearby, an extraordinary discovery was the 2007 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> from Rugg Family<\/a>, blending grapes from Stag’s Leap, Oak Knoll and Yountville. Downtown Napa\u2019s leading wine bar, Bounty Hunter<\/a>, poured their own 2008 Jurisprudence<\/b>, a Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Another special blend in the VIP section was the 2007 Enjoie RTW<\/b>, a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot m\u00e9lange from VinRoc<\/a>, whose Atlas Peak 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> proved truly outstanding. I was happy to visit with Sciandri<\/a> and resample their 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> I had first encountered at the inaugural Coombsville tasting. Demuth Kemos<\/a> featured their 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Terraces<\/b> but truly excelled with their 2008 Syrah Bei Ranch<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Back with the \u03bf\u1f31 \u03c0\u03bf\u03bb\u03bb\u03bf\u03af<\/b>, I worked my way through the latest and greatest from Baker Lane<\/a>: the 2009 Ros\u00e9 of Syrah<\/b>, the 2008 Ramondo Pinot Noir<\/b>, and both the 2008 Estate Syrah<\/b> and the 2008 Sonoma Coast Cuv\u00e9e Syrah<\/b>. I also revisited with Tom Keith\u2019s Athair<\/a> in order to try his elegant 2007 Russian River Pinot Noir<\/b> and the 2009<\/b> Russian River Pinot Noir Ros\u00e9<\/b>. On the more raucous side, Red Zeppelin<\/a> struck a resounding note with both their 2009 White Zeppelin Chardonnay <\/b>and the 2009 Black Zeppelin Petite Sirah<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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I had hoped to retry John Chiarito<\/a>\u2019s Italian varietals, but opted instead for his exquisite 2007 Petite Sir
\nah<\/b>. With Kelseyville\u2019s Rosa d\u2019Oro<\/a> on hand, I did get my fix with their 2007 Barbera<\/b>, the 2007 Dolcetto<\/b>, and an imposing 2008 Sangiovese<\/b>. And if that weren\u2019t enough, Treasure Island\u2019s Fat Grape Winery<\/a> poured its 2008 Sangiovese<\/b> alongside a 2008 Cabernet Franc<\/b>, an appealing 2008 Zinfandel<\/b>, a 2008 Mourv\u00e8dre<\/b>, and a 2008 Petit Verdot<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Page Wine Cellars<\/a> bottles its Bordeaux-style blends under its own name and designates its Revolver label for the rest. This afternoon they poured the 2007 The Stash<\/b>, a Cabernet Sauvignon softened with 5% Cabernet Franc, while showcasing Revolver\u2019s 2007 The Fury<\/b> (Cabernet Franc)<\/i> and the 2007 Perdition<\/b> (<\/i>Petite Sirah)<\/i>. Also from Napa, Longfellow Wines<\/a> elected to feature their 2007 Dry Creek Valley Syrah Unti Vineyard<\/b> and the 2008 Pinot Noir Griffin\u2019s Lair Vineyard<\/b>. The unassumingly named Napa Station<\/a> from former Merryvale<\/a> CEO Peter Huwiler quietly made its splash here with a quartet of well-executed wines: the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc<\/b>, the delectable 2007 Chardonnay<\/b>, a balanced 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> and the 2007 Merlot<\/b>.<\/p>\n
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In Mendocino, the city of Point Arena has its own lighthouse, as well as an official Poet Laureate<\/a>\u2014and Mariah Vineyards<\/a>; their meticulously hand-picked wines included the 2007 Zinfandel<\/b> and the 2006 Syrah<\/b>, both strikingly well-crafted vintages. Meanwhile, Bennett Valley<\/a> near Santa Rosa boasts Bennett Valley Cellars<\/a>, with its appealing Bin 6410 Pinot Noir<\/b>. And nearby in Santa Rosa, Kivelstadt Family Vineyard<\/a> offered its 2009 Dog Daze Ros\u00e9<\/b> (Syrah\/Grenache) <\/i>and the 2008 Pavo Syrah<\/b>. An utterly superb Grenache came from Santa Rosa\u2019s Grey Stack<\/a>, the 2007 Dry Stack Grenache<\/b>, while their 2007 Marie\u2019s Block Syrah<\/b> came half a sip to being as good.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Like Mariah, Fogline Vineyards<\/a> handcrafts their wines, with impressive results for both the 2009 Pinot Noir Windsor Oaks Vineyard <\/b>and the 2009 Zinfandel<\/b>. Equal parts Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon constitute the aptly-named and immensely appealing 2006 Mixto <\/b>from Solovino<\/a>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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I oughtn\u2019t be critical of Greater Purpose<\/a>, a wine venture with charitable aspirations, but with their added purpose, all-too-hip design, and state-of-the-art Web site, they seem to have overlooked attention to detail in their wine blending. Their two wines, the NV White Label<\/b> and the NV Black Label<\/b>, both marry Cabernet Sauvignon with Zinfandel, the latter adding 10% Syrah. Neither had that \u201cyou\u2019ve got to try this\u201d cachet, but I respect their effort. I will, however, stand unrestrained in my disapprobation of wineries and wine events that affiliate themselves with or incorporate tobacco; certainly, I hope the appearance of CigarRV<\/a>\u2014the Mobile Mancave will prove a one-time aberration for Vintners Market<\/b>. (Readers here should know that Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>\u2019s
\ncommitment to a sustainable environment means that we will not
\naccommodate smoking on any portion of our premises, including the
\nprojected outdoor seating area atop our living roof<\/font><\/font><\/font>).<\/i><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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In reading other wine blogs, I sense I may have missed perhaps 50% of the possible new wineries that attended Vintners Market<\/b>. As always, I am grateful to Bridget and Cornelius for inviting me to their splendid event, but let me exhort them print out a program next time!! It will expedite matters for everyone: the media trying to cover the event, wineries taking the time to make the event happen, and attendees who come to enjoy and purchase<\/i> the wine on hand. In return, yours truly will continue striving to sample and evaluate as many West Coast wineries that meet Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>\u2019s<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> criteria as I can\u2014provided my palate doesn\u2019t go south again! <\/font><\/font>
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<\/font><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

November turned out to be another one of those months for Your West Coast Oenophile, which is why I landed up starting this entry in December. Sometimes my duties for Sostevinobile make me wonder how sustainable I am. But I get to drink some pretty special wine quite often. At least I usually think I […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[40,122,6,4,16,47,7,17,18,23,12,63,2,10,108,14,35,41,82,36,19,3,52,24,67,33,5,27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-barbera","category-blanc-de-pinot-noir","category-cabernet-franc","category-cabernet-sauvignon","category-chardonnay","category-dolcetto","category-grenache","category-malbec","category-merlot","category-montepulciano","category-mourvedre","category-nebbiolo","category-petit-verdot","category-petite-sirah","category-pinot-grigio","category-pinot-noir","category-primitivo","category-riesling","category-rose","category-sangiovese","category-sauvignon-blanc","category-syrah","category-tannat","category-tempranillo","category-teroldego","category-vermentino","category-viognier","category-zinfandel"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/50","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=50"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/50\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=50"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=50"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=50"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}