{"id":5,"date":"2014-07-31T23:29:10","date_gmt":"2014-08-01T06:29:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=5"},"modified":"2014-08-22T18:43:08","modified_gmt":"2014-08-23T01:43:08","slug":"whan-that-aprill-with-his-shoures-soote","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=5","title":{"rendered":"Whan that Aprill, with his shoures soote\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Make no mistake about it: five years of seeking out and sampling wines for\u00a0<span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span> takes its toll in unforeseen ways. <b>Your West Coast Oenophile <\/b>recently donated over 50 wine glasses to Goodwill, not necessarily out of a sense of <i><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">\u03c7\u03ac\u03c1\u03b9\u03c2<\/span><\/i>\u2014despite the urbanity of the local indigent populace, who have compelled pharmacies here to safeguard their supply of dental floss in locked display cases\u2014but, rather, in an overdue attempt to streamline the clutter in my 150 ft.\u00b2 kitchen. Standing out among the forgotten gems from this meticulous collection, culled from over two decades of professional tasting, was a pair of souvenir glasses from the erstwhile <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.cal-italia.org\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Consorzio<\/span> <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">CalItalia<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span>, the trade association for <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">locally-produced<\/span> Italian varietals that I have frequently cited here. Although I\u2019ve had owned this set since 2005, I somehow had failed to notice that the bowl was engraved with a secondary promotional\u00a0logo, one that inextricably explained why Consorzio had collapsed so spectacularly. Its principal co-sponsor had been that travesty masquerading as Italian cuisine\u2014<span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.olivegarden.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Olive Garden<\/span><\/a><\/span>!<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Olive-Garden-e1408757685768.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-244\" src=\"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Olive-Garden-e1408757685768.jpg\" alt=\"Olive Garden\" width=\"797\" height=\"412\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Olive-Garden-e1408757685768.jpg 797w, https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Olive-Garden-e1408757685768-300x155.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Olive-Garden-e1408757685768-624x322.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 797px) 100vw, 797px\" \/><\/a><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\"><i><b><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Hospitaliano<\/span>!<\/b><\/i> It cannot be overstated how fundamentally offensive these poseurs are, not simply because <span class=\"hiddenGrammarError\">their<\/span> culinary assembly line poses an affront to anyone who cherishes their rich <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.cnn.com\/2013\/08\/05\/travel\/10-things-italy-does-better\/index.html?hpt=hp_c3\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Italian<\/span><\/a><\/span> heritage. More odious renditions of this artifice certainly can be found\u2014assuming I could ever muster the temerity to set foot in one of their pretentious prefab outlets. And know that I find jejune, cartoonish <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">stereotypings<\/span>, like <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=H2i0QWXvOn0\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">The <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Fonz<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span> or the intellectually vacant <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=df73uwfVVdY\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Vinny <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Barbarino<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span>, far more debasing than any of the 30-second spots <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.darden.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Darden Restaurants<\/span><\/a><\/span> broadcasts. But the none-too-subtle implication of Olive Garden, with its pathetic promotional panderage, is that not just Italian, but any ethnicity can be readily <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">co\u00f6pted\u2014nay,<\/span> blithely <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">bastardized<\/span><i>\u2014<\/i>for crass commercial benefit.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Even without being underwritten by such an odious enterprise, my oft-mentioned desire to launch <i><b>Risorgimento<\/b><\/i> as a successor to <b><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Consorzio<\/span> <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">CalItalia<\/span><\/b> faces significant hurdles, something that the diaspora of this year\u2019s Rh\u00f4ne Rangers Grand Tasting painfully drove home. Like many in the trade, I had tried to keep an open mind about trekking across the Bay to the <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.craneway.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Craneway<\/span> Pavilion<\/span><\/a><\/span> in Point Richmond<span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\"><em> (if truth be told, <span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span> owes Richmond a debt of gratitude I will explicate after our doors finally open)<\/em>.<\/span> This renovated Ford assembly plant occupies a scenic perch along the eastern shore of the San Francisco Bay, with unrivaled vistas of The City, several bridges, and the sundry islets that dot the estruary; warm sun, a negligible breeze and a <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">reasonably-priced<\/span> chartered <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">ferry<\/span> made the excursion far more placid than battling the inevitable traffic that clogged the main thoroughfares in either direction.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Still, less than thirty of my trade cohorts took advantage of this amenity, an ominous portent for the ensuing event. Inside the cavernous hall, the 89 participating wineries represented a striking diminution from just a few years back when nearly 200 filled the Festival Pavilion at Fort Mason, and though an ample number of professional tasters did arrive by car or public transportation, public <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">ticketholders<\/span> were rumored to be only 120. <\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">In truth, I doubt more than forty paid attendees actually showed up, but no matter the actual tally, it was apparent that the Rh\u00f4ne Rangers membership absorbed a substantial financial hit for the afternoon. Still, an extensive selection of impressive varietals and blend, along with a number of new participants, made for a worthwhile excursion. First up, I saddled up to Los <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Olivos<\/span>\u2019 <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.bernatretreats.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Bernat Estate<\/span><\/a><\/span>, an organic winery that features organized retreats and an onsite caf\u00e9. Along with Sangiovese and <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Nebbiolo<\/span>, they specialize in a trio of bottlings, starting with the amiable <b>2009 Presence<\/b>, their Colson Canyon Syrah. More impressive, however, was their <strong>2009 Gratitude<\/strong>, an estate-bottled Syrah, which was complemented by an equally delightful 2<strong>011 Grenache Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley<\/strong>.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Making the trek to Richmond from the Central Coast, new attendee <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.lcwine.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Le Cuvier<\/span><\/a><\/span> debuted with an impressive <b>2010 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Viognier<\/span> Paso Robles<\/b>, then segued to their <b>2010 Syrah Paso Robles<\/b>. I found myself vastly impressed with their <b>2010 L\u2019Enfant du Pape<\/b>, a subtle blend of <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Viognier<\/span>, Syrah, Mourv\u00e8dre, and Grenache, while the barrel sample of their <b>2010 Grenache Paso Robles<\/b> portended great promise. Another newcomer, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.lightningwines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Lightning Wines<\/span><\/a><\/span>, enjoyed a far easier <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">commute<\/span> from Napa to pour their <b>2013 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">CdP<\/span> Blanc, <\/b>a distinctive m\u00e9lange of <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Roussanne<\/span>, <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Picpoul<\/span> Blanc, and Grenache Blanc sourced from Paso Robles, and a <b>2012 Grenache <\/b><b>Sonoma County<\/b>. Most striking, their <b>2011 Syrah Phoenix Ranch,<\/b> with grapes from a <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Rh\u00f4ne-focused<\/span> vineyard on <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Altlas<\/span> Peak I had not previously encountered.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Hyde Vineyard in Carneros has long been familiar; nonetheless, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/miranapa.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Mira Winery<\/span><\/a><\/span> offered distinctive expressions of their grapes, with both the <b>2010 Syrah Hyde Vineyard <\/b>and its preceding 2009 vintage. Northeast of Carneros, the <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Capay<\/span> Valley iepresents a designated AVA with a burgeoning reputation that also serves as the historic home of the\u00a0<span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.yochadehe.org\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Yocha<\/span> <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Dehe<\/span> <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Wintun<\/span> Nation<\/span><\/a><\/span>. With over 11,000 acres in production, the tribe today produces a diverse range of agricultural <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">fare<\/span>, including olive oil, honey, and a nascent wine label: <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.sekahills.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">S\u00e9ka<\/span> Hills<\/span><\/a><\/span>. Derived from the <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Patwin<\/span> word for blue, their inaugural efforts here included their amiable <b>2012 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Viognier<\/span><\/b> and a proprietary blend, the <b>2012 Tuluk\u2019a<\/b>, a decidedly nascent endeavor combining 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot, and 3% Petite Sirah.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Despite the relatively obscure location, a few intrepid souls found their way to Richmond from the Pacific Northwest. Hailing from Prosser, WA, newcomer <a href=\"http:\/\/mercerwine.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Mercer Estates<\/span><\/a> is a fourth-generation Horse Heaven Hills producer, here showcasing their <b>2013 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Viognier<\/span><\/b>, the <b>2013 Ros\u00e9<\/b> <em>(100% Grenache)<\/em>, and their Estate Reserve blend, the <b>2010 Ode to Brothers<\/b>. a GSM featuring\u00a040% Grenache, 39% Syrah, and 21% <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Mourvedre<\/span>. Also debuting at Rh\u00f4ne Rangers, Southern Oregon\u2019s <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.edenvalewines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">EdenVale<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span> featured a <b>2009 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Viognier<\/span><\/b> that seemed past its prime alongside a noteworthy <b>2007 Grenache<\/b>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Expediency dictates that I limit my review of this tasting to these new discoveries\u2014I have chronicled the rest of the attendees multiple times over the past five years, and while I am hardly sanguine about the financial setback Rh\u00f4ne Rangers must have incurred from <span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">this year\u2019s tasting,<\/span> I can only hope this choice of venue will not prove utterly deleterious and 2015 will see a new and reinvigorated tasting closer to the nexus of the Bay Area.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Another Fort Mason refugee found its change of venue diminished its scope and attendance, though not nearly as drastically as its French counterpart. Over the past several years, I have endeavored to help promote <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.tapasociety.com\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">T.A.P.A.S<span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">.<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span>, the trade association for Iberian varietal producers in the US., in no small part because I had hoped to see them catalyze renewed interest in a diverse array of trade tastings. I fear, though, that this annual showcase may have already reached its pinnacle, with fewer than 40 wineries on hand for 2014. While core members of this organization, like <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.bokischvineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Bokisch<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span>, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.abacela.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Abacela<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span>, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.verdadwines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Verdad<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span>, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.santacruzmountainvineyard.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Quinta Cruz<\/span><\/a><\/span>, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.piercevineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Pierce Ranch<\/span><\/a>, and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.twistedoak.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Twisted Oak<\/span><\/a> remain committed to advancing this sector and promoting its events, but too many others, like <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/bergholdvineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Berghold<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span> and <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.lodiwine.com\/blog\/lodis-portuguese-grape-king\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">SilvaSpoons<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span>, along with maverick producers like <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/forlornhopewines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Forlorn Hope<\/span><\/a><\/span>, were conspicuous in their absence <em>(along with the once obligatory culinary anchor, <a href=\"http:\/\/marcopaella.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Marco Paella<\/span><\/a>)<\/em>, new participants dwindled to a mere four\u2014all from outside of California.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">These Northwest newcomers included <a href=\"http:\/\/www.hillcrestvineyard.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">HillCrest<\/span><\/span><\/a>, Oregon&#8217;s oldest estate winery, purportedly the first winery to bottle a Pinot Noir in the Beaver State. This pedigree was amply displayed in their <strong>NV One the Lamb<\/strong>, an intriguing blend of <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Mazuelo<\/span> <em>(Carignane)<\/em> and Pinot Noir. I found their 2008 Cadiz, <span class=\"hiddenGrammarError\">an Umpqua<\/span> Valley <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Tempranillo<\/span> quite appealing, while their <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Tempranillo<\/span>\/Cabernet Sauvignon <em>(a <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">SuperRioja<\/span>?)<\/em> blend, the <strong>2009 Umpqua Ribera<\/strong>, proved superb. I was a bit less sanguine about their <strong>2010 <\/strong><span class=\"st\"><strong><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Tempranillo<\/span> Della Terra <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Torero<\/span> Nuevo<\/strong>, but truly <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">cottoned<\/span> to the <strong>1998 Vintage Trop<\/strong>, a superbly aged, fortified, Port-style offering.<\/span><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Previously, I hadn\u2019t realized that there was an Oakland in Oregon, here represented by <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.tripleoakvineyard.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Triple Oak Vineyard<\/span><\/a><\/span>, which fittingly featured a chronological vertical of its three most recent releases. This trio commenced with the striking<strong> 2010 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Tempranillo<\/span> Umpqua Valley<\/strong>. The 2011 bottling frankly seemed a bit wanting, while the quite-young 2012 hinted at fuller expression over the next 2-3 years. In contrast, the <strong>2011 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Tempranillo<\/span> Rogue Valley<\/strong> from debuting winery <a href=\"http:\/\/upperfivevineyard.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Upper Five Vineyard<\/span><\/a> proved a superb, compelling rendition of the varietal.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Further north, <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Woodinville\u2019s <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">wondrously named <a href=\"http:\/\/www.idilicowine.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Vinateria<\/span> <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Idilico<\/span><\/span><\/a> <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">proffered<\/span> an excellent<strong> 2013 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Albari\u00f1o<\/span> Yakima Valley<\/strong>. Their <strong>2011 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Tempranillo<\/span><\/strong> and <strong>2011 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Garnacha<\/span> Columbia<\/strong> proved equally appealing, while the <strong>2011 <span class=\"hiddenSpellError\">Graciano<\/span> Snipes Mountain<\/strong> simply dazzled. And while Tempranillo, Albari\u00f1o, and, to a degree, Garnacha\u2014the <strong>2011 Garnacha San Antonio Valley<\/strong> from Pierce Ranch proved astounding\u2014predominated this T.A.P.A.S. session, I was pleased that a number of wineries poured Graciano, led by the spectacular <strong>2011 Graciano Mokelumne River &amp; Clement Hills<\/strong> that Bokisch farmed and bottled. Others included <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fenestrawinery.com\" target=\"_blank\">Fenestra<\/a>\u2019s <strong>2011 Graciano Lodi, <\/strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.riazawines.com\" target=\"_blank\">Riaza<\/a>\u2019s<strong> 2011 Graciano Clement Hills<\/strong>, and the <strong>2010 Graciano Clement Hills<\/strong> from Quinta Cruz\u2014all, I assume, sourced from Markus\u2019 plantings, while Pierce Ranch showcased their own <strong>2011 Graciano San Antonio Valley<\/strong>, Twisted Oak featured a <strong>2011 Graciano Calaveras County<\/strong>, and Bob Lindquist\u2019s Verdad poured the <strong>2012 Graciano Ibarra-Young Vineyard<\/strong> from the Santa Ynez Valley. <\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Otherwise, the preponderance of the event seemed decidedly mainstream\u2014no Trincadeira, no Tinta C\u00e3o, merely a pair of Souz\u00e3os, no Loureiro, and no Torront\u00e9s. The sole revelation here was from a number of wineries pouring Verdejo\u2014I believe, for most, their first vintage. I must confess that, until this year\u2019s tasting I had assumed Verdejo was simply the Spanish term for the Portuguese Verdelho\u2014an error quickly rectified by sampling the two varietals side-by-side. Though slightly overshadowed by the more sublime <strong>2013 Verdelho Yolo County<\/strong>, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.berryessagap.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Berryessa Gap<\/span><\/a><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u2019s<strong> 2013 Verdejo Yolo County <\/strong>still very much pleased with its slightly tart palate. A similar<em> (albeit slight)<\/em> contrast marked the exceptional <strong>2013 Verdelho Borden Ranch<\/strong> from the <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>2013 Verdejo Borden Ranch<\/strong><\/span><\/span> that Bokisch debuted<strong>. <\/strong>Equally compelling: the <strong>2012 Verdejo Clarksburg<\/strong> from Riaza. <\/span><\/span><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">At this point, I must own to another of my ulterior motives\u2014a wine blending project I am contemplating,\u00a0 to be called <strong>V<\/strong> <em>(pronounced \u201cquintus\u201d)<\/em>. Like so many other endeavors I cite here, this, too, has been incubating far too long, as I have been searching for the hitherto elusive\u00a0 V-varietal #5 to complete this esoteric blend. And in Verdejo, my quest may have been fulfilled.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Despite an overt disappointment in the decline of these focused trade tastings, <span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span> remains firmly committed to our continued support of worthy organizations like T.A.P.A.S. and Rh\u00f4ne Rangers and will strive not only to bolster their efforts, but, of course, to showcase the incredible panoply of wines produced within our designated boundaries. Of course, a generous serving of paella<em> (or bouillabaisse)<\/em> along the way would go far in fueling my energies toward these ends\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Fast forward to the anomaly known as <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.pinotdays.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Pinot Days<\/span><\/a><\/span>. This event abruptly shifted both its date and location from earlier in June to the end of the month and from Fort Mason to the resurrected <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.westfield.com\/metreon\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Metreon Center<\/span><\/a><\/span> overlooking <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/yerbabuenagardens.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Yerba Buena Gardens<\/span><\/a><span style=\"color: #000000;\">. As such, I would have predicted significantly diminished attendance from previous years, and indeed the number of participating wineries did dwindle by nearly \u2154, from 253 to 92! As such, new discoveries for\u00a0<span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span>\u2019s wine program were but few, starting with <a href=\"http:\/\/www.attunewines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Attune Wines<\/span>,<\/a> a boutique Sonoma producer focused exclusively on Burgundian varietals. Veering from the sanctioned selections, they first pour a <\/span><\/span><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>2012 Chardonnay<\/strong>, which displayed a focused roundness. <\/span><\/span><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And while their <strong>2013 Pinot Noir Ros\u00e9<\/strong> proved quite amiable, their <strong>2011 Pinot Noir<\/strong> held up impressively for, admittedly, a most challenging vintage.<\/span><\/span><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">One of the hallmarks I have set for <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span> has been an unwavering objectivity in the wines we review and select. So some may question my effuse praise for the exceptional<\/span><\/span> Pinots <a href=\"http:\/\/www.beldenbarns.com\" target=\"_blank\">Belden Barns<\/a> poured, given that proprietor Lauren Belden also graduated from the Creative Writing program at Dartmouth, but coincidences will abound My introduction to their <strong>2012 Estate Pinot Noir<\/strong> was beyond pleasant, while their <strong>2012 Serendipity Block Pinot Noir<\/strong> proved one of the highlights of the afternoon. Belden Barns also bottles a discrete selection of white, including both an estate bottled Late Harvest Viognier and an Estate Gr\u00fcner Veltliner, ambitious for so young a winery and certainly an rarity among Sonoma\u2019s Pinot vineyards. I hope to report more in a future post.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">One of the few wineries trekking from Oregon, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/merrimanwines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Merriman Wines<\/span><\/a><\/span> nonetheless made the most of their journey, scoring impressively with both their <strong>2011 Cummins Road Pinot Noir<\/strong> and their outstanding flagship, the <strong>2011 Estate Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District<\/strong>, a wine that rivaled the aforementioned Serendipity. Though unrelated to <a href=\"http:\/\/www.merrimanco.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Merriman Capital<\/span><\/a>, another Dartmouth colleague I had previous approached for <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span>\u2019s financing, Merriman does share Belden Barn\u2019s penchant for the anomalous, complementing their red production not with the typical Burgundian white, but, rather, an Old Vine Chenin Blanc, a varietal that has certainly become underserved on the West Coast.<\/span><\/span><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-align: justify; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.teacmor.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Teac Mor<\/span><\/a><\/span> sounds like an Oregon label, but, in fact, hails from the Russian River Valley. Though I would dispute co-owner Christine Moore\u2019s contention that pistachios make for an excellent palate cleanser, I had no quarrel with the 4-year vertical they poured here. Being a young venture, their <strong>2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir<\/strong> seemed a tad jejune, while the\u00a0<span style=\"text-align: justify; font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>2010 Russian River Valley Noir\u00a0<\/strong>showed signs of hitting its stride. Atypically, their<br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"text-align: justify; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"text-align: justify; font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>2011 Russian River Valley Noir\u00a0<\/strong>s<\/span><\/span>hone far brighter than its preceding vintages, while the 2012 bottling lived up to expectations for such a banner. year.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-align: justify; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Another Sonoma producer, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/koblerestatewinery.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Kobler Estate<\/span><\/a><\/span>, also showcased a vertical of their wines, beginning with the <strong>2009 Russian River Pinot Noir<\/strong>. This well-balanced wine was followed with a striking <strong>2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir,<\/strong> the sole variant in this flight. The <strong>2011 Russian River Pinot Noir<\/strong> seemed adequate for the vintage, while the <strong>2012 Russian River Pinot Noir<\/strong> matched the loftiness of the 2010 bottling.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Though technically <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.spellestate.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Spell Estate<\/span><\/a> <\/span>did not constitute a new label, it has subsequently parted ways with winemaker Shane Finley since I first encountered them and is, in essence, a wholly different entity. Yet Spell has most definitely suffered no diminution in its scope or profound quality under current winemaker Andrew Berge. After sampling their exquisite <strong>2011 Russian River Valley Chardonnay<\/strong>, I found myself marveling equally at their trio of vineyard-designate Pinots: the <strong>2012 Pinot Noir Nicole\u2019s Vineyard,<\/strong> the <span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>2012 Pinot Noir Alder Spring Vineyard<\/strong>, and their crown jewel\u2014the <span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\"><strong>2012 Pinot Noir Marimar Estate Vineyard<\/strong>. Astounding wines, all.<\/span><\/span><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Jayson Pahlmeyer is no newcomer, either, but Pinot Days afforded the opportunity to sample his much-heralded new Sonoma label, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.wayfarervineyard.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Wayfarer<\/span><\/a><\/span>. Keeping stride with <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pahlmeyer.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Pahlmeyer<\/span><\/a><\/span>\u2019s mythic Chardonnay, the <strong>2012 <\/strong><span class=\"link-wrapper\"><strong>Wayfarer Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong> proved a glorious wine. only to be outshone by the aptly-named <strong>2012 Golden Mean Pinot Noir<\/strong>, a truly extraordinary expression of the grape. Similarly, <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.felwines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">FEL<\/span><\/a><\/span> represents legendary Napa producer Cliff Lede\u2019s conversion of Mendocino\u2019s <span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/breggo.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Breggo Cellars<\/span><\/a> <\/span>for his Sonoma and Mendocino operations. With equal aplomb, this new moniker debuted the <strong>2012 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley<\/strong> alongside the vineyard designates <strong>2012 Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard <\/strong><em>(Anderson Valley) <\/em>and<strong> 2012 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard <\/strong><em>(Sonoma Coast)<\/em>.<\/span><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">I do not mean to give short shrift to the other labels showcased here\u2014certainly I cannot fail to cite <a href=\"http:\/\/www.wrathwines.com\" target=\"_blank\">Wrath<\/a>\u2019s equally impressive <strong>2011 Wrath Pinot Noir San Saba Vineyard<\/strong> nor its compelling <strong>2011 Ex Vite Pinot Noir<\/strong>\u2014but despite uncharacteristically arriving just as the gates opened, I only managed to sample a few other selections this afternoon from those wineries making a return appearance at this tasting. Typically, I tend to malinger at tastings of this scope, hoping to include as many different wineries as possible, but on this afternoon, I felt compelled to exit an hour before closing. For while the number of wineries on hand had considerably dwindled from years past, the number of public attendees barely differed from the throngs that filled Fort Mason!<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Times New Roman,Times;\">Admittedly, I am not a person who bears up well in tight crowds. Trying to navigate such a compact space became intolerable <span style=\"font-size: 12pt;\">almost immediately <\/span>after the gates opened. Just as syn\u00e6sthetes can see colors from sounds\u2014as in Rimbaud\u2019s <em><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/poetry.about.com\/od\/poems\/l\/blrimbaudvoyelles.htm\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #3366ff;\">Voyelles<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/em>\u2014I cannot taste when the volume reaches a certain decibel level. And so I surrendered to the futility of the exercise and departed.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">As with the other tastings I have chronicled here, I am not seeking to critique the event, merely to comprehend its post-Fort Mason evolution. Certainly, I find it most encouraging that a major tasting can still draw a significant crowd, and while I am sure there are scores of Pinot Noir devotees, if not rabid fans throughout the Bay Area, I suspect the attendance at Pinot Days resulted more from aggressive marketing. And as I contemplate launching <i><b>Risorgimento<\/b><\/i>, I hope this holds true!<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Make no mistake about it: five years of seeking out and sampling wines for\u00a0Sostevinobile takes its toll in unforeseen ways. Your West Coast Oenophile recently donated over 50 wine glasses to Goodwill, not necessarily out of a sense of \u03c7\u03ac\u03c1\u03b9\u03c2\u2014despite the urbanity of the local indigent populace, who have compelled pharmacies here to safeguard their [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[44,6,4,42,7,11,143,12,2,10,8,14,88,9,3,24,188,57,5],"tags":[175,189,180,187,167,174,196,185,181,190,169,170,173,191,171,178,177,186,172,168,193,192,182,179,183,176,184,194,195],"class_list":["post-5","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-albarino","category-cabernet-franc","category-cabernet-sauvignon","category-graciano","category-grenache","category-grenache-blanc","category-mazuelo","category-mourvedre","category-petit-verdot","category-petite-sirah","category-picpoul-blanc","category-pinot-noir","category-port","category-roussanne","category-syrah","category-tempranillo","category-verdejo","category-verdelho","category-viognier","tag-abacela","tag-attune","tag-berghold","tag-berryessa-gap","tag-bokisch","tag-edenvale","tag-fel","tag-fenestra","tag-hillcrest","tag-kobler","tag-le-cuvier","tag-lightning","tag-mercer","tag-merriman","tag-mira","tag-pierce-ranch","tag-quinta-cruz","tag-riaza","tag-seka-hills","tag-silvaspoons","tag-spell","tag-teac-mor","tag-triple-oak","tag-twisted-oak","tag-upper-five","tag-verdad","tag-vinateria-idilico","tag-wayfarer","tag-wrath"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5"}],"version-history":[{"count":38,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":325,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5\/revisions\/325"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}