{"id":200,"date":"2014-12-01T00:02:20","date_gmt":"2014-12-01T08:02:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=200"},"modified":"2015-02-03T17:24:45","modified_gmt":"2015-02-04T01:24:45","slug":"erect-a-fence-to-protect-our-border","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=200","title":{"rendered":"Erect a fence to protect our border!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Don\u2019t fret. <strong>Your West Coast Oenophile<\/strong> hasn\u2019t turned xenophobic. It just seems that\u00a0<span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span> might have to ratchet things up a notch or two to stifle the insidious infiltration of foreign wine into the West Coast. Not the stuff they vint in Italy or France or Spain\u2014or even esoteric bottlings from Moldavia or Bulgaria\u2014but from places like Georgia.<\/span><\/p>\n<div style=\"outline-style: none; margin: 0px; padding: 3px; background-color: #ffffff; background-image: none ! important; text-align: justify;\" align=\"left\">\n<table style=\"width: 618px; height: 439px;\" border=\"0\" cellspacing=\"0\" cellpadding=\"0\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding: 0pt 6pt 0pt 0pt; outline-style: none; width: 32%; text-align: left; vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 12px; border-color: #ffffff;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Rkatsiteli.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter  wp-image-318\" src=\"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Rkatsiteli-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Rkatsiteli\" width=\"252\" height=\"336\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Rkatsiteli-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Rkatsiteli-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Rkatsiteli-624x832.jpg 624w, https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Rkatsiteli.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 252px) 100vw, 252px\" \/><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0pt 6pt 0pt 0pt; outline-style: none; width: 68%; text-align: left; vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 12px; border-color: #ffffff;\">\n<div style=\"text-align: justify; padding-left: 30px;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Obscurant linguists aptly think of Georgia as \u10e1\u10d0\u10e5\u10d0\u10e0\u10d7\u10d5\u10d4\u10da\u10dd, the jewel of the\u00a0Caucasus, known classically as Colchis, the land from where Jason purloined the Golden Fleece. Centuries later, this former Soviet republic gave the world \u10d8\u10dd\u10e1\u10d4\u10d1 \u10d1\u10d4\u10e1\u10d0\u10e0\u10d8\u10dd\u10dc\u10d8\u10e1 \u10eb\u10d4 \u10ef\u10e3\u10e6\u10d0\u10e8\u10d5\u10d8\u10da\u10d8<em> (Josef Stalin)<\/em>, while \u0153nophiles recognize it as home to the renowned varietal \u10e0\u10e5\u10d0\u10ec\u10d8\u10d7\u10d4\u10da\u10d8<em> (Rkatsiteli)<\/em>, and, reputedly, viticulture itself. However, I am referring to the Georgia-on-My-Mind Peach State, along with the other 44 non-Pacific states seeking to export their viticultural pretenses into our highly esteemed realm.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"outline-style: none; margin: 0px; padding: 3px; background-color: #ffffff; background-image: none ! important; text-align: justify;\" align=\"left\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Times New Roman', Times; font-size: 12pt; color: #333333;\">Granted the notion of running a 1,470 mile fence from the tiny enclave of Andrade, CA through the pristine eastern edge of the Colville National Forest portends to yield some potentially dire consequences, like bisecting Lake Tahoe, but drastic measures may very well be needed if these nether regions persist in efforts to dilute the prestige of the West Coast wine industry by enveloping what we produce under the pervasive label of \u201cAmerican wine.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">There are myriad reasons\u00a0<span style=\"color: #006633;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span> precludes wines from beyond the boundaries we have established. As befits our ecological entomology, we have established a defined radius for not only our wines but the entire roster of sustainably grown and locally produced foods we will source. But beyond this arguably political stance is an abiding belief in the quality of the wines and the breadth of selection we have available here, a belief evolved over 32 years of intimate involvement in the wine industry. It took the better part of nearly three decades for me to acknowledge the viticultural strides made in Washington and Oregon as a fluid continuum of the extraordinary evolution the industry has undergone here, but with only occasional exceptions, the other American Vititcultural Areas lag incrementally behind us. <\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Admittedly, I haven\u2019t had the temerity to try the <strong>2010 Frogtown Cellars Bravado<\/strong>, a US Georgian SuperTuscan Debra Parker Wong and Joe Roberts <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.1winedude.com\/georgia-sangiovese-2014-critics-challenge\">recently extolled<\/a><\/span>. I have downed a few glasses of New Mexico\u2019s <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.gruetwinery.com\">Gruet<\/a><\/span> in my time, heard the praises of <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.drfrankwines.com\">Dr. Konstantin Frank<\/a><\/span>\u2019s Finger Lake Rieslings, and have watched as Virginia quietly<em> (<\/em><em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.oasiswinery.com\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">White House gatecrashers<\/span> <\/a>and <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.trumpwinery.com\">Donald Trump<\/a><\/span>\u2019s bombast <\/em><em>aside)<\/em> stakes a claim for viticultural ascendancy<em> (after all, they have <\/em><em>most <\/em><em>planted <\/em><em>acreage <\/em><em>of Rkatsiteli in the US)<\/em>. But these scattered pockets of distinction still do not warrant inclusion as peers with the predominant excellence found here on the West Coast.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Earlier this season, I attended a most intriguing tasting, sponsored by <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.mastersofwine.org\" target=\"_blank\">Institute of Masters of Wine<\/a><\/span>. This self-poured retrospective of 45 Bordeaux-style reds from the 2010 and 2011 vintages highlighted 20 AVAs from California and 5 AVAs from Washington, along with the anomalous inclusion of wines from Grand Valley, CO; Long Island, NY; and Barboursville, VA. Apart from political expediency, the overarching attempt to brand these wines as <em>American Cabernet<\/em> proved utterly incongruous, these satellite regions barely approaching what would be considered adequacy here on the West Coast.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><em>N\u2019importa!<\/em> Others may persist in such misguided attempts at homogeneity. <span style=\"color: #006633;\"><strong>Sostevinobile<\/strong><\/span> remains resolute in maintaining its fidelity to the integrity of West Coast viticulture. Many times over, this guiding tenet was validated by the numerous highly impressive wines offered here, starting with an extraordinary <strong>2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.daouvineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Daou<\/span><\/a>, one of the pinnacles of Paso Robles\u2019 ascendancy. Rivaling the splendors of this wine, Calistoga\u2019s <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.maybachwine.com\" target=\"_blank\">Maybach<\/a><\/span> dazzled with its uniquely named <strong>2010 Amoenus Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>, as luxuriant a bottling as the cars crafted under its eponymous line. <\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">No surprise the <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley<\/strong> my friend Naoko <a href=\"http:\/\/www.dallavallevineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Dalle Valle<\/span> <\/a>showcased stood on par with these first two wines, while the sometimes fluctuating quality of <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.bvwines.com\" target=\"_blank\">Beaulieu Vineyards<\/a><\/span>\u2019 flagship label, the <strong>2010 Georges de Latour Private Reserve<\/strong>, returned to its zenith with this outstanding release. I certainly would have expected a wine of this caliber from Cathy <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.corison.com\" target=\"_blank\">Corison<\/a><\/span>, and the <b>2<\/b><strong>010 Cabernet Sauvignon Kronos Vineyard<\/strong> did not disappoint.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Somewhat verging from the rest of the field, <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.josephphelps.com\" target=\"_blank\">Joseph Phelps<\/a><\/span>\u2019 eponymous label elected to feature a retrospective from the previous decade, the <strong>2005 Insignia<\/strong>, his last official bottling. Not surprisingly, most of the wineries shied away from showcasing their 2011 vintage\u2014an erratic vintage at best\u2014and opted for the more consistent 2010. As such, <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.continuumestate.com\" target=\"_blank\">Continuum Estate<\/a><\/span>\u2019s <strong>2011 Continuum Pritchard Hill<\/strong>, a deft blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Merlot, proved an out-of worldly<em> (though not quite Martian)<\/em> wine that consolidated Tim Mondavi\u2019s claim to his father\u2019s mantle. Another Napa legacy, Rosemary Cakebread, similarly proved a worthy heir to her family\u2019s renown with the <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley<\/strong> from her proprietary <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.gallicawine.com\" target=\"_blank\">Gallica<\/a><\/span> label.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">When I began my wine career in the early 1980s, Chenin Blanc was ubiquitous trhoughout the Napa Valley. It now seems an anomaly that <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.ballentinevineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\">Ballentine Vineyards<\/a><\/span> still produces a rendition, albeit one that attained Top 100 Wine status in <em>Wine Enthusiast<\/em>. Still, their old school approach led to an unexpected pleasure in discovering their <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve<\/strong> among the highest tier poured this day. Thirty years ago, I had a peripheral role in the first acquisition of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chateaustjean.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Ch\u00e2teau St. Jean<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0 then a winery that only produced white wines; here, this Sonoma landmark continued to hold its own with the Napa titans with its storied <strong>2010 Cinq C\u00e9pages<\/strong><em> (its 1996 vintage was proclaimed Wine of the Year by <strong><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.winespectator.com\" target=\"_blank\">Wine Spectator<\/a><\/span><\/strong> in 1999)<\/em>. <\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Cinq C\u00e9pages\u2019 first winemaker, Richard Arrowood, went on to found his own eponymous label, before establishing his current venture, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amapolacreek.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Amapola Creek<\/span><\/a>. His touch, however, manifested itself quite distinctively in the <strong>2008 Cabernet Sauvignon R\u00e9serve Sp\u00e9ciale<\/strong> <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arrowoodvineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Arrowood Vineyards<\/span><\/a> featured here, a wine that neared the excellence of the St. Jean. Other veteran winemakers who predate my involvement excelling here included Angwin\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.robertfoleyvineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Robert Foley<\/span><\/a>, with his spectacular <b>2<\/b><strong>010 Cabernet Napa Valley <\/strong>and, of course, the much-heralded Paul Draper from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ridgewine.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Ridge<\/span><\/a>, whose<strong> 1997 Monte Bello<\/strong> validated the endurance of this spectacular vintage.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Also from that year, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.heitzcellar.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Heitz Wine Cellars<\/span><\/a> poured its astounding\u00a0<strong>1997 Martha\u2019s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> . In contrast, a relatively recent wine label. Michael Polenske\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.blackbirdvineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Blackbird<\/span><\/a>, impressed with its <strong>2010 Contrarian Proprietary Red Wine<\/strong> a deft blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. Others random selections garnering equal accolades included the <strong>2009 M5 Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyards<\/strong> from Atlas Peak\u2019s <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.kruppbrothers.com\" target=\"_blank\">Krupp Brothers<\/a><\/span>,<span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"> <a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.trefethen.com\" target=\"_blank\">Trefethen<\/a><\/span>\u2019s <strong>2010 Reserve Cabernet Oak Knoll District<\/strong>, and from Beaulieu Vineyards former Director of Winemaking Joel <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.aikenwines.com\" target=\"_blank\">Aiken<\/a><\/span>, a superb <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford<\/strong>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Several of Napa\u2019s more redoubtable wineries made notable showings, among which were <a href=\"http:\/\/www.staglinfamily.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Staglin Family Vineyard<\/span><\/a>, with their <strong>2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford<\/strong>; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.darioush.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Darioush<\/span><\/a> with their <strong>2011 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>, and Merlot pioneer <a href=\"http:\/\/www.keenanwinery.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Keenan<\/span><\/a>, with their <strong>2011 35th Anniversary Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>. Agustin <a href=\"http:\/\/www.huneeusvintners.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Huneeus<\/span><\/a> also featured selections from his designate labels, with its <strong>2011 Faust<\/strong> outpointing the more vaunted <strong>2011 Quintessa<\/strong>, a wine that has steadfastly excelled during more benevolent vintages, while his former prot\u00e9g\u00e9 Bettina Sichel\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.laurelglen.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Laurel Glen<\/span><\/a> radiated with its <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain<\/strong>. <\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Impressively, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.jacksonfamilywines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Jackson Family Wines<\/span><\/a> attained this plateau with four of its varietal-focused labels: the <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder<\/strong> from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.lokoya.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Lokoya<\/span><\/a>, their <a href=\"http:\/\/www.cardinale.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Cardinale<\/span><\/a> <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>, and the <a href=\"http:\/\/mtbravewines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Mt. Brave<\/span><\/a> <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder<\/strong>, along with their <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.anakota.com\" target=\"_blank\">Anakota<\/a><\/span> <strong>2009 Helena Dakota Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> from Sonoma\u2019s Knights Valley.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span class=\"\">Readers here know that I am generally wary of labels that become absorbed by the large conglomerates. Nevertheless, those that are given their autonomy after acquisition often maintain the integrity of their label\u2019s brand. Here, <span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.diageo.com\" target=\"_blank\">Diageo<\/a><\/span>\u2019s <a class=\"\" href=\"http:\/\/stagsleap.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Stags\u2019 Leap Winery<\/span><\/a>, Carl Doumani\u2019s former hallmark dazzled with the still-way-young <strong class=\"\">2010 The Leap<\/strong>, an amazing expression of the district. The oft-sold <a class=\"\" href=\"http:\/\/www.beringer.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Beringer<\/span><\/a>, a proverbial pingpong ball in the ongoing <a class=\"\" href=\"http:\/\/www.tweglobal.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Treasury Wine Estates<\/span><\/a> saga, still managed to maintain its historical stature with a profound, aromatic <strong class=\"\">2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve<\/strong>, the current vintage of its landmark bottling that <em class=\"\"><strong class=\"\">Wine Spectator<\/strong> <\/em>named Wine of the Year in 1990. <a class=\"\" href=\"http:\/\/www.pineridgevineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Pine Ridge<\/span><\/a>, the crown jewel in <a class=\"\" href=\"http:\/\/crimsonwinegroup.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Crimson Wine Group<\/span><\/a>\u2019s small but growing conglomerate, proved its worth with its <strong class=\"\">2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley,<\/strong> a pan-AVA blend from its select Stags Leap District, Oakville and Rutherford vineyards<\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span class=\"\">With a heritage that extends back to 1876, <span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.cbrands.com\" target=\"_blank\">Constellation<\/a><\/span>\u2019s <a class=\"\" href=\"http:\/\/www.simiwinery.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Simi Winery<\/span><\/a> managed to uphold its venerable distinction with its <strong>2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley<\/strong>. With prominent holdings in both California <em class=\"\">(<span class=\"\"><a class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.conncreek.com\" target=\"_blank\">Conn Creek<\/a><\/span>, <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.villamteden.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\">Villa Mt. Eden<\/span><\/a><\/span>, <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.cask23.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\">Stag\u2019s Leap Wine Cellars<\/span><\/a><\/span>) <\/em>and Oregon<em class=\"\"> (<span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.erath.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\">Erath<\/span><\/a>)<\/span><\/em>, the Columbia Valley\u2019s <a class=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ste-michelle.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span class=\"\" style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Ch\u00e2teau Ste. Michelle<\/span><\/a> has blossomed into one of the West Coast\u2019s major wine conglomerate <em class=\"\">(actually, a subsidiary within an even larger international conglomerate)<\/em> in its own right, yet still manages to distinguish itself under its originating Washington label with its <strong>2011 Cold Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley<\/strong>. Washington\u2019s acclaimed Horse Heaven Hills boasted a superb <strong>2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve<\/strong> from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.boudreauxcellars.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Boudreaux Cellars<\/span><\/a>, while the Red Mountain AVA featured <a href=\"http:\/\/www.delillecellars.co\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">DeLille Cellars<\/span><\/a>\u2019 <strong>2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Four Flags<\/strong>. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span class=\"\">The Walla Walla Valley was well represented here, starting with the <strong>2011 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> from <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.amavicellars.com\" target=\"_blank\">Amavi Cellars<\/a><\/span>. This tasting afforded me my first opportunity to sample the Washington\u2019s esteemed <a href=\"http:\/\/leonetticellar.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Leonetti Cellar<\/span><\/a>, but I felt their <strong>2011 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>, despite hints of excellence, was far from ready at this stage. Fortifying my contention, their next door neighbor, Drew Bledsoe\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.doubleback.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Doubleback<\/span><\/a> radiated with its <strong>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley<\/strong>. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span class=\"\">My final discovery of the afternoon was a serendipitous tasting of the <strong>2010 Big Papa Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.efeste.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">EFEST\u0112<\/span><\/a> in the Yakima Valley. All in all, this <em><strong>American Cabernet Tasting<\/strong><\/em> underscored how Washington\u2019s five AVAs kept stride with the more heralded regions of California<em> (I suspect, if a similar tasting of Merlots were held, our northern neighbor would dominate)<\/em>. The wines from Colorado, Virginia and New York did not even approach this level of quality or complexity.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span class=\"\">Other tastings I have attended have amply demonstrated a deepening parity between California and Oregon for Burgundian varietals, particularly Pinot Noir, while both Washington and Oregon have produced a number of exceptional varietals that have not gained a foothold here. Still, little argument can be made that the wines of the other 47 states approach the quality the West Coast produces; attempts to incorporate the viticultural axis on which\u00a0<span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span> continues to focus into the more generic category of American wine can only dilute our reputation<\/span><span class=\"\">.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Speaking of Pinot, a number of contemporary wineries feel my longitudinal demarcation isn\u2019t restrictive enough. Once again, I was happy to make my way to north to participate in this year\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.westsonomacoast.com\/west-of-west-festival\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">West of West<\/span><\/a>, the annual festival highlighting the close-knit group of West Sonoma winemakers redefining cold climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah in California. Returning to <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/thebarlow.net\/\" target=\"_blank\">The Barlow<\/a><\/span>, Sebastopol\u2019s sprawling, state-of-the-art, sustainable complex dedicated to winemakers, food producers and artisans, this close-knit collective shares not only a camaraderie but a collective passion for more restrained, expressive wines <em>(not coincidentally, many of the labels poured here are also mainstays of <a href=\"http:\/\/inpursuitofbalance.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">In Pursuit of Balance<\/span><\/a>)<\/em>.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Given this overlap, only a few participants had not previously poured at events\u00a0<span class=\"\"><span style=\"color: #008000;\"><b>Sostevinobile<\/b><\/span><\/span> regularly attends. Still, I was pleased to discover Jan Holtermann\u2019s <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/almafria.com\" target=\"_blank\">Alma Fria<\/a><\/span>, whose wines focus on fruit from his eponymous vineyard in Annapolis. Heralding from three generations of wine importers, Jan\u2019s current venture showed a seasoned sophistication with these inaugural releases, particularly the single vineyard <strong>2012 Do\u00f1a Margarita Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong> and the <strong>2012 Holtermann Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong>. Quite amiable, though not quite as distinctive, were their broader-ranged <strong>2012 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast<\/strong> and a <strong>2012 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast<\/strong>.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\">Also debuting their wine: <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.senseswines.com\" target=\"_blank\">Senses<\/a><span style=\"color: #333333;\">, a new collaboration from\u00a0Occidental natives\u00a0and\u00a0childhood buddies Chris Strieter, Max Thieriot, and Myles Lawrence-Briggs. True to form, winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown blended grapes from both Hillcrest and B. A. Thieriot Vineyards to produce an exceptional <b>2012 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast<\/b>, alongside a textbook <b>2012 Pinot Noir\u00a0Sonoma Coast<\/b>. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">I would be hard pressed to find a wine that I found unremarkable among the ardent, studious collective pouring here, but several of the perennial participants came through with truly exceptional vintages. Two of the most impressive came from my prep school colleague Steve Singer\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.bakerlanevineyards.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Baker Lane<\/span><\/a>: the\u00a0<b>2012 Sonoma Coast Cuv\u00e9e Pinot Noir <\/b>and his exceptional signature bottling, the <b>2012 Estate Syrah<\/b>. Other friends from my East Coast upbringing, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.benziger.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Benziger Family Winery<\/span><\/a>, dazzled with their <b>2012 de Coelo Terra Neuma\u00a0Pinot Noir<\/b>, while peripatetic winemaker Ryan <a href=\"http:\/\/www.zepaltaswines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Zepaltas<\/span><\/a> proved his mettle with his truly extraordinary <b>2012 Devoto Terra Neuma\u00a0Pinot Noir<\/b>. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Echoing Benziger\u2019s devotion to environmental stewardship, <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.ceritaswines.com\" target=\"_blank\">Cerritas<\/a>\u00a0<span style=\"color: #000000;\">showcased an organically farmed <b>2012 Porter Bass Vineyard Chardonnay<\/b>.The paradoxically named <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.smallvines.com\" target=\"_blank\">Small Vines<\/a><\/span> also garnered enormous appeal for its profound <strong>2012 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast<\/strong>.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I typically associate <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.dumol.com\" target=\"_blank\">DuMol<\/a><\/span> with Chardonnay, as well, but here their standout proved to be the <b>2012 Aidan Wild Rose Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b>. While simultaneously managing <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.vinifywine.com\" target=\"_blank\">Vinify<\/a><\/span>, the Santa Rosa custom crush facility where many of the West of West vintages are produced, Justin and Hillary <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.lattanziowines.com\">Lattanzio<\/a><\/span> produce an understated eponymous label, here with their <b>2012 Umino Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b> redolent of an impressive pedigree honed under Heidi Barrett and Wells Guthrie. Another winemaker esteemed for his Cabernets, David <a href=\"http:\/\/www.rameywine.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Ramey<\/span><\/a>, displayed his Burgundian forte with the <strong>2012 Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong>.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; color: #000000; font-size: 12pt;\">Mirroring Ramey, Sebastopol\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.redcarwine.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Red Car<\/span><\/a> also excelled with their own rendition of<\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> the <strong>2012 Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong>. A mainstay at numerous Pinot-focused tastings with both his Oregon or his Sonoma vintages, <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.siduri.com\" target=\"_blank\">Siduri<\/a><\/span>\u2019s Adam Lee can always be relied upon for consistently outstanding wine, as evidenced here by his <strong>2012 Pinot Noir Sonoma <\/strong><strong>Coast<\/strong>. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Some may find it hubristic to claim parity with one of Burgundy\u2019s most esteemed producers, but <a href=\"http:\/\/www.soliste.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Soliste<\/span><\/a>\u2019s self-referential homage to <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.romanee-conti.com\/#\/8GrandsCrus\" target=\"_blank\">Vosne-Roman\u00e9e <\/a><\/span>for its marvelous <strong>2011 F\u00f4ret Pinot Noir<\/strong> holds a definite degree of validity. The hallmark of this wine comes, however, comes from its triumph over an arguably vexing vintage. Across California, wines from 2012 almost uniformly proved wonderful, a vintage that made itself. But the preceding year required considerable \u0153nological prowess to eke out a memorable wine, and a significant number of wineries chose to bypass bottling from this harvest. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">In addition to Soliste, several wineries pouring at <em><strong>West of West<\/strong><\/em> rose to the occasion with spectacular results, including <a href=\"http:\/\/www.32winds.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">32 Winds<\/span><\/a>, with their <strong>2011 Lucky Well U.V. Pinot Noir<\/strong>. So, too, did <span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.grosventrecellars.com\" target=\"_blank\">Gros Ventre<\/a><\/span>, with their salute to primogeniture, the <strong>2011 First Born Pinot Noir<\/strong>. Katy Wilson augmented her <a href=\"http:\/\/www.laruewines.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">LaRue<\/span><\/a>\u2019s growing reputation with the <strong>2011 Emmaline Anne Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong> while one of The Barlow\u2019s anchor wineries, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.macphailwine.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">MacPhail<\/span><\/a>, displayed considerable aplomb with their <span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>2011 Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong>, a most striking predecessor to the above-mentioned latter vintage. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.marimarestate.com\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Marimar Estate<\/span><\/a> operates an offsite tasting room at The Barlow to complement their Sebastopol estate\u2019s acclaimed Do\u00f1a Margarita <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Vineyard<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">. True to their renown, their <strong>2011 Mas Cavalls Pinot Noir<\/strong> proved a deft blend of their allocated Pommard (63%), Dijon 115 (32%), and Dijon 667 (5%) clones. As specifically focused and equally lush: the <strong>2011 Bodega Ridge Block Pinot Noir<\/strong> from John &amp; Barbara Drady\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.sonomacoastvineyards.com\/\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\">Sonoma Coast Vineyards<\/span><\/a>. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Taming the 2011 vintage was not restricted to Pinot. Ramey featured a rich <strong>2011 Platt Vineyard Chardonnay<\/strong>, while <strong>Red Car\u2019s 2011 Estate Vineyard Syrah<\/strong> proved utterly masterful. As I complimented one of the vineyardists here on how the <em><strong>West of West<\/strong><\/em> wineries had risen to the challenges of such an ornery year, he confided that, for these growers, 2011 had been anything but, the intense heat spikes that had felled so many other regions hadn\u2019t affected this cold, isolated AVA. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman,Times; font-size: 12pt;\"><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">As always, the <em><strong>West of West<\/strong><\/em> provided an exceptional, highly informative tasting, one that stood apart from many of the less consistent events I have attended of late. Could argument be made that this region has risen to the point that it stands apart from the rest of the West Coast? Perhaps, but certainly there is no case for erecting a fence\u2014just yet.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Don\u2019t fret. Your West Coast Oenophile hasn\u2019t turned xenophobic. It just seems that\u00a0Sostevinobile might have to ratchet things up a notch or two to stifle the insidious infiltration of foreign wine into the West Coast. Not the stuff they vint in Italy or France or Spain\u2014or even esoteric bottlings from Moldavia or Bulgaria\u2014but from places [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[6,4,16,18,14,3,1],"tags":[251,211,238,236,224,206,241,203,239,200,242,226,222,232,217,243,207,231,230,202,204,199,197,215,233,229,234,244,237,208,252,212,219,205,214,209,253,223,235,218,254,255,198,216,227,245,246,221,220,240,247,228,248,250,256,213,225,210,249],"class_list":["post-200","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cabernet-franc","category-cabernet-sauvignon","category-chardonnay","category-merlot","category-pinot-noir","category-syrah","category-uncategorized","tag-32-winds","tag-aiken","tag-alma-fria","tag-amavi","tag-anakota","tag-arrowood","tag-baker-lane","tag-ballentine","tag-banshee","tag-beaulieu-vineyards","tag-benziger","tag-beringer","tag-blackbird","tag-boudreaux","tag-cardinale","tag-ceritas","tag-chateau-st-jean","tag-chateau-ste-michelle","tag-constellation","tag-continuum","tag-corison","tag-dalle-valle","tag-daou","tag-darioush","tag-delille","tag-diageo","tag-doubleback","tag-dumol","tag-efeste","tag-gallica","tag-gros-ventre","tag-heitz","tag-huneeus","tag-joseph-phelps","tag-keenan","tag-krupp-brothers","tag-larue","tag-laurel-glen","tag-leonetti","tag-lokoya","tag-macphail","tag-marimar","tag-maybach","tag-mt-brave","tag-pine-ridge","tag-ramey","tag-red-car","tag-ridge","tag-robert-foley","tag-senses","tag-siduri","tag-simi","tag-small-vines","tag-soliste","tag-sonoma-coast","tag-staglin","tag-stags-leap","tag-trefethen","tag-zepaltas"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/200","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=200"}],"version-history":[{"count":75,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/200\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":440,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/200\/revisions\/440"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=200"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=200"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=200"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}