{"id":119,"date":"2009-06-15T22:23:00","date_gmt":"2009-06-15T22:23:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=119"},"modified":"2009-06-15T22:23:00","modified_gmt":"2009-06-15T22:23:00","slug":"tapas-taking-off-where-zap-began","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=119","title":{"rendered":"TAPAS: taking off where ZAP began"},"content":{"rendered":"
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I\u00a0like to create my own anagrams. Back when\u00a0Your West Coast Oenophile<\/strong>\u00a0contemplated becoming a children\u2019s doctor, I devised\u00a0<\/span>POPPA<\/span>, which stood for\u00a0P<\/strong>ediatricians\u00a0O<\/strong>pposed to\u00a0P<\/strong>rophylactics, the\u00a0P<\/strong>ill, and\u00a0A<\/strong>bortion, a self-aggrandizing scheme aimed at providing an endless stream of new patients for my future practice. Later, while working at Tetris\u2122 distributor Spectrum HoloByte, I came up with the quintessential P<\/strong>ranksters\u00a0H<\/strong>ired to U<\/strong>ndermine (Your)<\/em> C<\/strong>ompetitors\u2019 Q<\/strong>uality and\u00a0U<\/strong>surp (Their)<\/em>\u00a0P<\/strong>rominence and P<\/strong>rofitability, otherwise know as\u00a0PHUCQ UPP<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span>Of course, I am always happy to give due credit to others who can hold their own in this arena, and, as Randall Grahm aptly noted in his off-the-cuff discourse, the contrivance to come up with T<\/strong>empranillo\u00a0A<\/strong>dvocates\u00a0P<\/strong>roducers and\u00a0A<\/strong>migos\u00a0S<\/strong>ociety in order to educe TAPAS<\/span><\/em><\/strong>\u00a0was sheer mastery<\/span><\/span><\/span>.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
Maybe because I\u00a0decided to forgo the quintennial gathering of my own amigos<\/em><\/strong> from our days of sequestration<\/span> back in Lakeville, Connecticut<\/a>, I decided to attend the trade seminar on Spanish varietals, prior to the 2nd Annual TAPAS Grand Tasting<\/a> at Fort Mason on Sunday. My friend Markus Bokisch broadly elucidated the history and transformation of\u00a0Albari\u00f1o vinification quite ably, not terribly surprising once you\u2019ve tasted his own deft manipulation of this varietal. Similarly, Penelope Gadd-Coster navigated aficionados through an overview on\u00a0Tempranillo that was highly enjoyable and never didactic.<\/span><\/div>\n
Onward we went, from the seminar in Building D to the quaint antechamber in Building A, known as the Golden Gate Room. Hard to believe this nowadays, but it was in this very same room <\/span>that the gargantuan ZAP<\/strong> Grand Tasting<\/a>, which now occupies two entire piers, first took place. A good omen for TAPAS<\/strong>, to be sure, and a much easier venue to reach than the late, great Copia, where their inaugural tasting was held.<\/span><\/div>\n
This year\u2019s gathering included 36 member wineries from California and Oregon, plus one lone representative from Arizona. In other words, just about the right density to remain manageable for one afternoon. My simple plan of attack meant rounds of seven wineries at a time, interspersed with a recharge of the incredible paella the chefs from Marco Paella<\/a> were generously doling out from the back of the room. Maybe because of their alphabetically primacy, I first turned my attention to Oregon\u2019s Abacela<\/a>, a winery owned by TAPAS<\/strong> president Earl Jones. Standout among their pourings was a 2005 Tempranillo, Reserve, Southern Oregon<\/strong>, and I reserved some space for a revisit near the end of the afternoon with their 2006 Port, Southern Oregon<\/strong>, whose memory from last year\u2019s tasting still lingered. A nearby swing brought me to Plymouth\u2019s Bray Vineyards<\/a>, whose noteworthy 2008 Verdelho<\/strong>\u00a0preceded a taste of their striking 2006 Vinho Tinto<\/strong>, a blend of 5 Portuguese varietals: Tinta C\u00e3o, Touriga Nacional, Souz\u00e3o, Tinta Roriz, and Alvarelh\u00e3o (my spellcheck hasn\u2019t a clue about any of these)<\/em>! Bodega del Sur<\/a> from Pacifica(!) similarly offered their 2007 Carmesi<\/strong>, an intriguing blend that spanned multiple viticultural designations, combining Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Then again, compare these wines with Boeger Winery<\/a>\u2019s 2005 Milagro<\/strong>, a decidedly more Spanish-leaning m\u00e9lange of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon,\u00a0and Graciano.<\/span><\/div>\n
Graciano, of course, has long been my favorite offering from Bokisch Vineyards<\/a>, though I found myself more partial this time to their 2007 Garnacha, Lodi<\/strong>. Another paragon of this varietal was the 2007 Garnacha, Denner Vineyards, Paso Robles<\/strong> from Villa Creek Cellars<\/a>, whose e<\/span>qually delightful 2007 Mas de Maha, Paso Roble<\/strong>s combines Tempranillo with Garnacha and Mourv\u00e8dre. I am used to referring to Garnacha by its Rh\u00f4ne designation, Grenache, and I often flip between Mataro and\u00a0Mourv\u00e8dre; calling this latter varietal Monastrell, as does\u00a0Paso Robles\u2019 Vi\u00f1a Castellano<\/a> was unfamiliar to me. Nonetheless, this house produces a fine bottling of such but truly stood out for both its 2004 Tempranillo <\/strong>and 2005 Tempranillo<\/strong>. Vi\u00f1a Robles<\/a> is of course, another neighbor taking liberal advantage of Paso Robles\u2019s abundance of Rh\u00f4ne varietals, using Petite Sirah, Syrah, and Tannat to add to Touriga to make their 2007 Red Blend<\/strong>.<\/span><\/div>\n
Maybe someday Bonny Doon<\/a> will swap me a couple of cases of their finest (would that they still made grappa!)<\/em> in exchange for my insights into Web design. A striking visual site, but a Web presence is supposed to be all about rapid<\/em><\/strong> access to information. To be fair, almost every design house I know is as self-indulgent with their own site; still, Randall, who needs hallucinogenic graphics when your 2007 Angel Paille<\/strong> already fits the bill? The good folks at St. Amant Winery<\/a> offered their version of a post-prandial wine with their 2006 Vintage Port<\/strong>, Amador County, while St. Helena\u2019s Tesouro Port Cellars<\/a> blended Touriga, Tempranillo, Alvarelh\u00e3o, Souz\u00e3o and Tinta C\u00e3o to make their 2005 California Dessert Wine<\/strong>, a deceptively generic name for such an intriguing wine. Further north, in Jacksonville, Oregon, Valley View Winery<\/a> topped the alcohol charts with their 2007 \u201cAnna Marie\u201d Port, Rogue Valley<\/strong>.<\/span><\/div>\n
Though currently Sostevinobile<\/span> does not plan to include Arizona in its mix, the Grand Canyon State was ably represented by Callaghan Vineyards<\/a>, whose 2007 Padres<\/strong> accentuated its 58% Tempranillo with both Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Iberian wine houses permeated in a number of atypical locales, like Livermore\u2019s Fenestra Winery<\/a>, which finds its strength in Portuguese varietals, including its 2006 Alvarelh\u00e3o<\/strong> and 2006 Touriga<\/strong>. Also from Livermore, Murrieta\u2019s Well<\/a> blends their 2007 Zarzuela <\/strong>with\u00a0Touriga Nacional, Tempranillo, Souz\u00e3o and Touriga Francesca. Closer to San Francisco Bay, Danville\u2019s Odisea Wine Company<\/a> offers blends of epic proportion, my favorite being their 2007 Two Rows Garnacha<\/strong>, a duet of Grenache and Tempranillo. Poised at the Bay\u2019s edge, El Cerrito\u2019s Tejada Vineyards<\/a> offered similar fare with their 2005 Tempranillo & Garnacha Blend<\/strong>, as well as a noteworthy 2006 Tempranillo, Reserve<\/strong>. Quaint Murphys in the Gold Country lays claim to Hovey Wine<\/a>, with its standout 2007 Rolleri Cuv\u00e9e Tempranillo, Calaveras County<\/strong>; the urban confines of the City and County of San Francisco, meanwhile, is home to James Judd & Son<\/a>\u2019s 2006 Tempranillo. Circling back to Jacksonville, Red Lily Vineyards<\/a> offered one of the day\u2019s standout wines, their 2005 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley<\/strong>.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
Anomalies (at least as far as I am concerned)<\/em> in nomenclature also abounded, to a degree. The parlance of business school should have nothing to do with the soaring, elegiac beauty of viticulture; still, the 2006 Tempranillo, Lake County<\/strong> from Six Sigma Winery<\/a> represents a commendable undertaking. I kidded the proprietors of Irish Family Vineyards<\/a> that their label seemed as much an oxymoron as Pasquale\u2019s Corned Beef & Cabbage, but their 2<\/strong>006 Grenache <\/strong>and 2007 Touriga Nacional<\/strong> warrant no ribbing.<\/span><\/div>\n
Providing their own laughs, of course, was the ever-outr\u00e9<\/em> Twisted Oak<\/a>, with a quartet of nonetheless highly respectable wines, including a 2008 Verdelho <\/strong>from Lodi\u2019s highly regarded Silvaspoons Vineyards. Another familiar face was Constellation\u2019s Clos du Bois<\/a>, valiantly striving to maintain an individual identity with its 2005 Tempranillo<\/strong>, Alexander Valley, Sonoma Reserve. This blog has also given considerable plaudits in the past to Quinta Cruz<\/a>, a pre-eminent Iberian wine producer, whose 2006 Touriga<\/strong> combines both Touriga Nacional and Touriga Francesca.<\/span><\/div>\n
A number of wineries came out with commendable Ros\u00e9s (Rosado)<\/em>. After Penelope Gadd-Coster\u2019s morning presentation, many folks flocked to the <\/a>Coral Mustang<\/a> display to try her 2006 Tempranillo Ros\u00e9<\/strong>. Solvang\u2019s D\u2019Alfonso-Curran<\/a> dazzled with their 2007 Grenache Gri<\/strong>s<\/strong>. Trenza\/Tangent Wineries<\/a> offered a 2008 Trenza Rosado, an uncommon Spanish-style ros\u00e9 from the familiar Rh\u00f4ne the GMS blend.\u00a0Verdad Wine Cellars<\/a>, the Spanish division of Rh\u00f4ne-style pioneer Qup\u00e9, blended 90% Garnacha with Tempranillo to make its bone-dry 2008 Ros\u00e9<\/strong>.<\/span><\/div>\n
Truth (verdad<\/strong>) <\/em>was clearly expressed in the 100% Tempranillos from a pair of Napa wineries. Truchard Vineyards<\/a> offered a vertical from 2000-2005, the standout being their current 2005 Tempranillo<\/strong>. Striking, too, was the 2007 Tempranillo, Shake Ridge Vineyards, Amador County<\/strong> from Yorba Wines<\/a>. Less orthodox were the predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon blends with Tempranillo from Parador Cellars<\/a>, although their 2006 Tempranillo Reserva Rancho Chiles <\/strong>was delightful.<\/span><\/div>\n
Lacking a clever segue, I can only list the remaining presenters without the benefit of thematic continuity. Barreto Cellars<\/a> proved strongest in their Portuguese offerings, particularly their 2005 Touriga, Lodi<\/strong>. From the next vintage, Pierce Ranch Vineyards<\/a> shone with their 2006\u00a0Touriga<\/strong> .\u00a0The wonderfully-labeled Dancing Coyote<\/a> dueling whites from each country, with a slight edge going to the 2007 Verdelho, Clarksburg <\/strong>over the\u00a02007 Albari\u00f1o, Clarksburg<\/strong>. Premier grape grower Ron Silva, bottling as Alta Mesa Cellars<\/a> from his own Silvaspoons Vineyards, truly excelled with his 2008 Alta Mesa Cellars Verdelho, Lodi<\/strong>.\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
The standout producer for the afternoon also crushed Silvaspoons grapes. Matt Rorick\u2019s whimsically named Forlorn Hope Wines<\/a> dazzled with four wines. The 2008 La Gitana<\/strong> was one of only two Torront\u00e9s at TAPAS<\/strong>. The 2008 Suspiro Del Moro<\/strong> was, I believe, the only single-varietal Alvarelh\u00e3o. A third white was his Verdelho, the 2007 Que Saudade<\/strong>. Lastly, he blended Touriga, Tempranillo, Tinta C\u00e3o and Tinta Amarela to make his superb 2006 Mil Amores<\/strong>.<\/span><\/div>\n
It will take perhaps not mil amores<\/strong><\/em> but definitely mil amigos<\/em><\/strong> to continue sustaining TAPAS<\/strong>. With my strong predilection toward Italian varietals, I have watched the rise and subsequent retreat of these varietals on the West Coast, as well as the dissolution of their trade association, Consorzio Cal-Italia<\/a><\/em><\/strong> after its promising beginnings. Despite these vicissitudes, including Antinori\u2019s lamentable decision to uproot the Sangiovese vines from its reacquired Atlas Peak<\/a>, I see inklings of a resurgence in Italian varietals here on the West Coast and, one would hope, a restoration o<\/span>f the Consorzio<\/em><\/strong> on par with Rh\u00f4ne Rangers and other specialized advocacies.<\/span><\/div>\n
I wonder whether Spanish and Portuguese varietals will need to endure a similar oscillation before truly taking hold here. Like Sangiovese and Viognier, I suppose it will take a few tries before vintners truly grasp the full nuance of Tempranillo and its compadres<\/strong><\/em>. And, of course, there is still the issue of acceptance from a public that has scant familiarity with these wines. Most people still associate Spanish wine with Sangria<\/a> and, unfortunately, the taint of Mateus<\/a> and Lancers<\/a> still clouds perception of Portugal\u2019s offerings. As always, though, I wish TAPAS all the best with their mission and look forward to the day they, too, move out of Building A and occupy the piers of Fort Mason, just like ZAP<\/strong> (okay, maybe just one pier\u2014there isn\u2019t a paella pan large enough to accommodate both exhibit halls)!<\/em><\/span><\/div>\n

<\/span><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I\u00a0like to create my own anagrams. Back when\u00a0Your West Coast Oenophile\u00a0contemplated becoming a children\u2019s doctor, I devised\u00a0POPPA, which stood for\u00a0Pediatricians\u00a0Opposed to\u00a0Prophylactics, the\u00a0Pill, and\u00a0Abortion, a self-aggrandizing scheme aimed at providing an endless stream of new patients for my future practice. Later, while working at Tetris\u2122 distributor Spectrum HoloByte, I came up with the quintessential Pranksters\u00a0Hired to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[44,98,6,4,42,7,12,10,88,82,62,3,52,24,64,71,99,58,66,57,163],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-119","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-albarino","category-alvarelhao","category-cabernet-franc","category-cabernet-sauvignon","category-graciano","category-grenache","category-mourvedre","category-petite-sirah","category-port","category-rose","category-souzao","category-syrah","category-tannat","category-tempranillo","category-tinta-amarela","category-tinta-cao","category-torrontes","category-touriga","category-touriga-nacional","category-verdelho","category-vinho-tinto"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=119"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/119\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=119"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=119"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=119"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}