{"id":107,"date":"2009-08-25T23:35:00","date_gmt":"2009-08-25T23:35:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=107"},"modified":"2009-08-25T23:35:00","modified_gmt":"2009-08-25T23:35:00","slug":"praeternatural-wine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=107","title":{"rendered":"Pr\u00e6ternatural Wine"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Your West Coast Oenophile<\/b> feels more like an OenoFill<\/b> this week, having spent nearly ten hours visiting tables at Family Winemakers of California<\/a> this past Sunday and Monday. It\u2019s like undertaking a Master\u2019s Swim class; no matter how hard you try, you can\u2019t help but swallow a bit as you complete your interminable laps. I know I ought to rally and make it to at least some of the tastings for San Francisco Natural Wine Week<\/a> that is now upon us, but we will have to see. <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Natural wine is a bit hard to define, even for its proponents. There are elements, of course, that completely sync with the values that Sostevinobile<\/font> espouses; nonetheless, there are indeed times when in the craft of making great wine\u2014be it l\u00e9ger de main<\/i><\/b> or the sheer artistry of a skilled vintner\u2014when intervention can be warranted. And, as I have often rebuked those who monomaniacally extol the merits of terroir<\/b><\/i> above all else, wine should taste of<\/b><\/i> the soil, not like<\/i><\/b> the soil. That small quibble aside, I\u2019m sure the lure of good wine will lure me to at least one of the events. As they say in France, nous verrons<\/b><\/i>\u2026<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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The prospect of enjoying natural wine has made me ponder whether I\u2019ve ever tasted pr\u00e6ternatural wine. Some would justifiably apply this term to the 1945 Ch\u00e2teau P\u00e9trus or the famed 1947 Cheval Blanc, and although I lack direct evidence, I feel confident they would be right. For me, the closest I can recall was the 2005 David Arthur<\/a> Elevation 1147, a phenomenal wine that hinted at the greatness of their legendary 1997 vintage. Soon, quite soon, I hope to have added many of these \u00e6therial wines to my list of \u201cconquests.\u201d<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Pr\u00e6ternatural wines do not often appear at industry grand tastings, but, as it has many times over the past 19 years, Family Winemakers did showcase a number of extraordinary bottlings. Not to mention some very good wines, as well. If only I had the endurance to taste every one of them. Figure if I allocated a scant five minutes per station, in my ten hours on the floor, I\u2019d still only connect with 120 of the attendees\u2014barely \u2153 of the wineries on hand\u2014and that would be without a moment\u2019s pause!<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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So, with apologies to all I must overlook, let me summarize my discoveries from this year\u2019s gathering. In the spirit of generosity, I will first cite the 2007 Philanthropist <\/b>from Indig\u00e8ne Cellars<\/a> of Paso Robles. The somewhat odd placement of the accent grave<\/i> in their name underscores their contrarian approach to the wines they blend. This assemblage of Cabernet and Petit Verdot that winemaker\/owner Raymond Smith inoculated with white wine yeast might evoke cries of \u201cSacr\u00e9 Bleu<\/b>\u201d<\/i> in Bordeaux, but here it drank quite artfully. Another winery from Paso Robles debuting at this tasting, HammerSky Vineyards<\/a>, also presented a Bordeaux-style blend, their 2007 Party of Four<\/b>, along with their noteworthy 2007 Zinfandel<\/b>. Finding myself next to Paso stalwart Halter Ranch<\/a>, I of course indulged in their nicely-aging 2004 Ancestor<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Older wines are not usually par for the course at these industrial tastings, so the 2004 Brion Cabernet Sauvigno<\/b>n<\/b> from B Wise Vineyards<\/a> was a happy exception. So, too, were the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> and 2004 Syrah <\/b>from Reynoso Family<\/a> in Alexander Valley. Slightly younger, the 2005 Crazy Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> from DeLorimier Vineyards<\/a>, part of the Wilson Winery<\/a>\u2019s growing portfolio, did its Alexander Valley roots quite proud, while the 2005 Lytton Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> was quite the amiable Cab from Zinfandel territory. Many California wineries that blend their Cabernets with traditional Bordeaux varietals often omit Malbec, citing difficulties with growing this grape. Discovering the 2004 Malbec <\/b>from Elements of Sonoma<\/a> was therefore all the more gratifying.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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The up & coming wineries in Paso Robles, Santa Maria, and Santa Barbara, on the other hand, often feel unbound by the rigidity of the French classifications, and have developed evocative Meritage blends from Bordeaux and Rh\u00f4ne varietals, among other apostasies. Jettlynn Winery<\/a> poured two of their Masters Blend, the (predominantly 2006) <\/i>NV Mon Couer<\/b>, a Bordeaux blend with 4% Syrah in the mix, and the aptly-named NV Opulent, which softened with 10% Syrah. Once again, a mere table over introduced me to another Paso neighbor, Justin Kahler\u2019s JK Wine Company<\/a>, with its contrasting 2005 Syrah Chalone<\/b> and 2007 Syrah del Rio<\/b>, a strong showing for their Family Winemakers inaugural appearance.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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And what would be a tasting without satisfying my penchant for esoteric varietals? Santa Maria\u2019s Kenneth Volk Vineyards<\/a> offered their 2006 N<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>\u00e9<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>gr<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>ette<\/b> while Arbios Cellars<\/a> pleased with their 2007 Praxis Central Coast Lagrein<\/b>. Slightly more familiar, Templeton\u2019s Clavo Cellars<\/a> shone with a noteworthy 2006 Grenache Blanc<\/b>, while its red twin 2007 Grenache Mendocino<\/b> marked Elizabeth Spencer<\/a>\u2019s high point. One could luxuriate all day in the intriguing varietals Tablas Creek <\/a>produces, but I held myself to a quick sip of their 2008 Picpoul Blanc <\/b>while introducing myself to fellow wine blogger Tommy Oldr\u00e9. A number of Iberian wines proliferated the event, notably Fenestra Winery<\/a>\u2019s 2006 Alvarelh\u00e3o, while veteran Cal-Italia specialist Graziano Family<\/a> impressed with both their 2005 Enotria Dolcetto<\/b> and 2007 Enotria Barbera<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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The curiously-named Herman Story<\/a> showcased an exemplary 2007 White Hawk Vineyard Viognier<\/b>, while Calluna Vineyards<\/a>, a name that might have been derived from Jerry Brown\u2019s tenure as Governor Moonbeam<\/a>, held forth with both their Bordeaux-style 2007 Calluna Cuv\u00e9e<\/b> and the 2007 Merlot Aux Raynauds<\/b>. Twisting the tongue almost as much as Sostevinobile, Coquelicot Estate<\/a> also featured their <\/font>2006 Syrah<\/font> and a Meritage, the <\/font>2006 Mon Amour<\/font>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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Mon amour<\/b><\/i> is a term I am sure many a wine connoisseur has longed to whisper to Flowers Winery<\/a>\u2019s Keiko Niccolini, and it was not just the allure of their renowned Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that drew me to her table. So, too, did my well-documented fondness for the Yates sisters<\/a> lure me to try their 2006 Cheval<\/b>, a pure Cabernet Franc. Lust, of course, does not enter into my friendship with Peter Thompson of Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards<\/a>, but his 2005 Diamond Mountain District<\/b> Cabernet Sauvignon did inspire lascivious thoughts.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
On the green side of winemaking, it was most gratifying to connect finally with LangeTwins<\/a>, the Lodi appellation recently honored for their solar implementation. Their 2005 Midnight Reserve<\/b> is a Bordeaux blend as admirable as their commitment to sustainability. Organically-farmed Ackerman Family<\/a> presented a selection of their limited-release Cabs, culminating in a \u201csneak preview\u201d of the 2005 Ackerman Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>. Terra S\u00e1via<\/a> was one of the few wineries bold enough to call themselves organic; their 2005 Petit Verdot <\/b>made a bold statement in its own right.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
I like to think of Ventana Vineyards<\/a> as a somewhat traditional winery and have long been impressed with their Chardonnays, in particular; nonetheless, their 2007 Gew\u00fcrztraminer Monterey Arroyo Seco<\/b> was a notably subdued expression of this tangy varietal. Schug Carneros Wine Estate<\/a> did, however, make their statement with the 2006 Chardonnay Heritage Reserve<\/b>. Another winery that stood out in this vein was Athair Wines<\/a>, with a notably crisp 2007 Chardonnay<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
On the traditional red side, notable Cabernets abounded from Lawrence Harrison Vineyards<\/a>, a winery led by their 101-year-old proprietress, with their 2005 Leo Joseph Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>; Tayson Pierce Estates<\/a>, whose 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> barely attained the single varietal threshold, with a 75% Cabernet\/25% Merlot blend; Alexander Valley\u2019s Roth Estate<\/a>, Lancaster Estate\u2019s Cab-only division, with their 2006 vintage; Darms Lane<\/a>, also a single-varietal producer from Oak Knoll in Napa, with their 2005 Darms Lane Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, and Castello di Amorosa<\/a>, Dario Sattui\u2019s monumental erection, with their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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I was hard-pressed to pick a favorite between the 2005 Hestan Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> and the 2005 Meyer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, both from Hestan Vineyards<\/a> (perhaps they could have settled the debate if they\u2019d brought their <\/i>2005 Stephanie Cabernet,<\/i><\/b> as well)<\/i>. Recipient of numerous Robert Parker accolades Gemstone Vineyards<\/a> offered a similar dilemma with their 2006 Facets of Gemstone Estate Red Blend<\/b>, a Bordeaux-style Meritage, and the special release 2006 10th Gemstone, a Cabernet with 20% Petit Verdot blended in. Portfolio Winery<\/a>, a venture in art and in wine, offered no dilemma, pouring their exquisite 2005 Portfolio Limited Edition<\/b>, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
\"\" is the selective accolade I bestow on wines that truly strike me as pr\u00e6ternatural\u2014or close to it. Certainly Clos Pepe<\/a> fit the bill with their seductive 2007 Pinot Noir Santa Rita<\/b>. Also dazzling in the Pinot realm was consensus favorite Wedell Cellars<\/a>, with both his <\/b><\/font>2006 Wedell Cellars Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir<\/b> and his staggering <\/font>2005 Hillside Vineyard Pinot Noir <\/b><\/font>from Edna Valley.<\/font> Amid all the hubbub on the floor of the Festival Pavilion, I fell sway to the worldly charms of Jennifer Hong from TGIC Importers, who steered me to the wines of Skipstone Ranch<\/a>; both their 2007 Makena\u2019s Vineyard Viognier<\/b> and Bordeaux-style 2005 Oliver\u2019s Blend<\/b> dazzled with their organically-farmed grapes. Jennifer, however, held the great surprise to the tasting herself as the representative for Paso Robles\u2019 Opolo Vineyards<\/a>. Their 2005 Rhapsody <\/b>was yet another standout Bordeaux Meritage, but the 2006 Montagna-Mare<\/b>, a blend of Barbera and Sangiovese, truly stole my heart.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
As an addendum, I did manage to sneak out and attend the Natural Wine Week tasting at Arlequin<\/a> in the midst of composing this piece. Look for my findings in my next blog entry.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Your West Coast Oenophile feels more like an OenoFill this week, having spent nearly ten hours visiting tables at Family Winemakers of California this past Sunday and Monday. It\u2019s like undertaking a Master\u2019s Swim class; no matter how hard you try, you can\u2019t help but swallow a bit as you complete your interminable laps. I know […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[40,6,4,16,47,61,7,11,72,17,18,56,8,14,36,3,5,27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-107","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-barbera","category-cabernet-franc","category-cabernet-sauvignon","category-chardonnay","category-dolcetto","category-gewurztraminer","category-grenache","category-grenache-blanc","category-lagrein","category-malbec","category-merlot","category-negrette","category-picpoul-blanc","category-pinot-noir","category-sangiovese","category-syrah","category-viognier","category-zinfandel"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/107","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=107"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/107\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=107"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=107"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=107"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}