{"id":10,"date":"2014-01-01T00:07:58","date_gmt":"2014-01-01T00:07:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=10"},"modified":"2014-01-01T00:07:58","modified_gmt":"2014-01-01T00:07:58","slug":"duck-die-nasty","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/?p=10","title":{"rendered":"Duck die nasty"},"content":{"rendered":"
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<\/td>\nThis past November marked a bit of a bittersweet milestone for Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font>\u2014one which Your West Coast Oenophile<\/b> seems a tad reluctant to concede at this stage\u2014as has been the situation with the preponderance of 2013 (in no small part from having been struck by an industrial truck while cycling back in March)<\/i>. So for now, let me just say it is both a
\ntriumph and a disappointment. Fortunately, I have a phenomenal bottle
\nof 2009 Barbera <\/b>from Mora Estate<\/a> with which to console myself<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>.<\/font><\/p>\n
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Mora Estate is perhaps the most recent of my win<\/font><\/font>e discoveries, a boutique operation in Sonoma County that focuses on esoteric Italian varietals. I\u2019ve also had the chance to sample their soon<\/font>-to-be released 2012 Rosa<\/b>to<\/b>, a wine made predominantly from Corvina Veronese. Winemaker Fabiano Ramaci\u2019s greatest viticultural triumph to date, however, has to be his 2009 Valpo<\/b>, California\u2019s first authentic Amarone, produced from Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella, and Negara grapes he has sourced from Alexander Valley. And to think, I thought I had a bead on almost everything being grown out here<\/font>!<\/font><\/div>\n

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<\/font>Much has been made lately about Lou Reed<\/a> since his recent passing, and the seminal influence of his music. Debates will long rage on as to which was his signature album, but I tend to favor The Velvet Underground and Nico<\/a>. The late German female vocalist<\/a> who collaborated with Reed on this opus bears no relation to Sonoma\u2019s Nico Wines<\/a>, a boutique label specializing in Italian varietals, to which I was formally introduced at<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> Mystery Wine Night<\/a>,<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> Underground Cellars launch party.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> I had already had the good fortune to have been wowed by Nico\u2019s superb 2009 Dolcetto<\/b> a few weeks prior, after Debbie Zachareas of Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant<\/a> had casually donated it to a poolside gathering at The Gateway<\/a>, and so had prearranged to meet with owner\/winemaker Kevin Rogers at this ensuing tasting. Nico\u2019s other selections included a 2012 Fiano<\/b>, along with my first sampling of a California Greco di Tufo, the 2012 Il Greco<\/b>, both harvested from Tanya\u2019s Vineyard in the Russian River Valley<\/font>.
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My exposure to Grignolino grown on the West Coast has pretty much been limited to Heitz<\/a>\u2019 renowned Grignolino, their Grignolino Ros\u00e9, and a Guglielmo<\/a> Grignolino I have yet to try. Add Nico to that list, with its 2012 Ros\u00e9<\/b>, vinted from 55% Lagrein and 45% Grignolino. Kevin\u2019s lineup also included a 2012 <\/font>Barbera<\/b> and a notable 2012 Moscato<\/b> (95% Moscato Giallo, 5% Fiano<\/font>)<\/i>. My other initia<\/font>tion at this event came from Santa Rosa\u2019s Woodenhead<\/a>, a winery that had long eluded encountering me. Here they featured an intriguing pair of their current releases: 2010 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley <\/b>and the 2008 Zinfandel Martinelli Road Vineyard Old Vine<\/b>.<\/font><\/font>
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Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> is usually quite happy to extoll the efforts of fellow entrepreneurs venturing into the wine realm, particularly those that portend to abet what we are striving to accomplish <\/i>(and vice versa)<\/i>. This sort of mutual cooperation has truly been a hallmark throughout all facets of the wine industry, a stark contrast to the ruthless competitiveness and unwritten code of \u201cmediocrity promoting mediocrity\u201d that demarcate the advertising\/marketing sector (the ignoble profession I forsook to found<\/i> this venture)<\/i>. Still, I am perplexed by a number of recent launches like Underground Cellar or Wine Savage, <\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>online forays from acquaintance<\/font>s<\/font> o<\/font>n the wine circuit, that seem rather jejune, if not emulative of the <\/font>\u1f55\u03b2\u03c1\u03b9\u03c2 that befell the now-defunct Wine Luxury<\/a>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
In contrast, one venture that can Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> <\/font><\/font>enthusiastically endorse is SoFi<\/font><\/a>, a social finance initiative that provides a creative platform for investors to help mitigate the burden of student loans for higher education. As their mission statement proclaims, \u201cSoFi connects investors and borrowers via school-specific lending funds. Investors receive a compelling return and borrowers reduce the cost of their student loans.\u201d<\/i><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
SoFi sponsors a number of events in the Bay Area and in other key cities across the US to bring together members and potential investors, along with students who have subscribed to their programs, in a convivial atmosphere. I was graciously invited to attend their most recent wine gathering at San Francisco\u2019s opulent Millennium Tower<\/a>, in the private dining room above RN74<\/a>. The <\/font><\/font>demure allure<\/font><\/font> of Thuy Vu<\/a> quite swayed me from my task at hand, but I somehow managed to extricate myself from the sway of her pulchritude and focus on the quartet of wine labels being featured at this intimate soir\u00e9e<\/font><\/font>.
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I, of course, had long ago been captivated by Realm Cellars<\/a>, a winery producing three distinctive Cabernets showcasing three separate Napa AVAs: the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Farella Vineyard <\/b>from Coombsville, the Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard<\/b> from St. Helena, and the Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> from Oakville. Similarly, I have succumbed on numerous occasions to the twins charms of Kristine Ashe<\/a> and Entre Nous<\/a>, and so gladly engaged General Manager Joe Filippini, here showcasing the 2010 Entre Nous Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> from their Oakville vineyards along Highway 29. The new discoveries at this event came from the inaugural bottling of Adriel Lares<\/a>\u2019 2010 Memento Mori<\/b>, a poignant tribute to his late father cultivated from a selection of prized Cabernet Sauvignon plantings, predominantly from Beckstoffer\u2019s George III and Las Piedras Vineyards; wine industry veteran Lee Nordlund, with whom I ought<\/i> to have crossed paths at some previous point since 1982, introduced his Punch<\/a> label\u2019s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, alongside his 2012 Proof Chardonnay<\/b>.<\/font><\/font> <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
I had the chance to taste through the full Punch\/Proof lineup a month after this event, at a private release party for their fetching 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>. Other wines from Lee\u2019s impressive lineup included Punch\u2019s 2011 Bracero Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley<\/b> and the 2012 Proof Pinot Noir Anderson Valley<\/b>.
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I arrived at the Nordlund home that afternoon, having attended the nearby 14th Annual Mt. Veeder Appellation Tasting<\/a>, an event that had been dampened\u2014literally\u2014by an unanticipated summer shower.<\/font><\/font> As
\nwith many attendees, I had delayed setting out from San Francisco in the hope the weather
\nwould clear; consequently, I was still able to enjoy the last hour or so of this event with only slight impediment from the lingering drizzle. While the muddied grounds may have caused my hand-stitched<\/font> Lucchese 2000s<\/a> to slip a few times, this muck was definitely no revival of Pinot in the River<\/a>! <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
My first reward for persevering was an introduction to Anthem<\/a>, a collaboration between industry veterans Jeff Ames (Rudius<\/a><\/i>) and John Anthony Truchard (John Anthony<\/a><\/i>), here showcasing their inaugural bottling, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder<\/b>. Other epiphanies here included Mithra<\/a>, a \u0153nological homage to the Zoroastrian divinity co\u00f6pted by latter-day Roman mysticism<\/a>, dazzling with their gorgeous 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, and VGS Ch\u00e2teau Potelle<\/a>, a reconfiguration of Ch\u00e2teau Potelle by inveterate Francophile Jean-No\u00ebl Fourmeaux du Sartel, which contrasted a selection of Bordelaise varietal bottlings: the obligatory yet nonetheless noteworthy 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, alongside remarkable renditions of a 2010 Cabernet Franc<\/b> and a 2010 Merlot<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Despite my usually meticulous notes, I somehow had not recorded previous tastings with Foyt<\/a> and with Lampyridae<\/a>; the former comported itself ably with Foyt Family Wines #77<\/b>, a 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, while Lampyridae\u2019s wines, developed, in part, to raise funds for children with severe communication needs, excelled with both their 2010 Mount Veeder Communication Block Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> and their Syrah, the 2010 Lampyridae Vineyards Mount Veeder Communication Block Red Wine<\/b>, as well as the 2009 Lampyridae Vineyards Mount Veeder Communication Block Red Wine<\/b>, a blend of 66% Syrah and 34% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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My previous omissions also included Progeny<\/a>, who is, to the best of my knowledge, only the second winery (the other being O\u2019Shaughnessy)<\/i> growing St. Macaire in Napa, here featured their as-yet unblended standard, the 2007 Special Selection Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, while Ron Fenolio\u2019s Veedercrest<\/a> contrasted their amiable 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> with the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, a wine that was definitely hitting its stride now.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Further north of Mt. Veeder, I had earlier traversed the Valley to attend another summer tradition, Rutherford\u2019s Day in the Dust<\/a>, an event that had yet again been transposed, this time from the signature grandiose staging of Jean-Charles Boisset to a more subdued venue at BV\u2019s production facility. Many familiar faces pouring here, with 2010 Cabs and 2012 Sauvignon Blancs <\/b>predominant among the offerings. Caspar Estate<\/a>, a boutique project from Cultivar<\/a>\u2019s Jody Harris and Julien Fayard, underscored the tightness of this young vintage (as opposed to the immediate approachability I found in most 2009s) <\/i>with their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford<\/b>. Nonetheless, I cottoned to the 2010 Scarlett Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> McGah Family Cellars<\/a> poured alongside a notable 2011<\/b><\/font><\/font> 1070 Green<\/b><\/font><\/font> Sauvignon Blanc<\/b>.
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I had always liked Sawyer Cellars<\/a>, in part because of its Anglicized version of my mother\u2019s family\u2019s name, so was apprehensive to see it reincarnated as Foley Johnson<\/a> after its acquisition by Foley Family Wines, but the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford <\/b>they poured displayed a most reassuring continuity. Previous renditions of this event had proven rather homogenous in its varietal range, apart from Tres Sabores<\/a>\u2019 2010 Zinfandel Rutherford Estate<\/b> and a sporadic selection of Petite Sirahs, so it was most welcome to find a break in this monotony from newcomer Talahalusi<\/a>, Rene and Maria Haug\u2019s iconoclastic Rh\u00f4ne venture. I was quite satisfied with the 2011 Roussanne Rutherford <\/b>but a bit more tepid towards the 2011 Picpoul<\/b>. Alors, nous verrons<\/i>\u2026<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Recently, it was announced that Petite Sirah had supplanted Zinfandel as Napa\u2019s second most prolific red grape, a particularly notable feat, given the relative obscurity of the varietal only a few years ago. Efforts to rebrand the grape as Durif\u2014a disambiguation from Syrah\u2014have largely failed to gain any traction, and the debate on whether it should be classified as a true Rh\u00f4ne varietal rages on, yet amidst all this clamor, this spicy varietal has gained considerable popularity.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Yet despite its upsurgence in Napa, Petite Sirah is still very much rooted in the Livermore Valley, a distinction borne out annually by the Petite Sirah Symposium<\/a>\u2014a rare instance of this term being employed in the original Platonic<\/a> nuance. Though notably smaller in scope and attendance from last ye
\nar\u2019s tribute to Jim Concannon, this year\u2019s gathering included a number of new participants Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font> had yet to have encountered. Leading alphabetically, Aaron Wines<\/a>, a panelist for the symposium in addition to pouring here for the first time, impressed with their 2010 Petite Sirah-Paso Robles<\/b>. Napa-based Aratas Wine<\/a>, here also for the first time, offered contrasting bottlings from 2009, the 2009 Shake Ridge Ranch Petite Sirah<\/b> (Amador County)<\/i> and their estate grown 2009 Napa Valley Petite Sirah<\/b>, along with a young 2010 version of the latter. <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Many here know that I started out in the wine business helping to orchestrate Mergers & Acquisitions. Over the past year, in an effort to bolster my subsistence while negotiating Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font>\u2019s funding\u2014contrary to appearances, I couldn\u2019t possibly survive solely on the generosity of catered wine events I attend\u2014I have found myself reluctantly drawn back into this practice,<\/font><\/font> offering to parlay the strength of my winery knowledge<\/font><\/font> for discreet investors. These endeavors led me to discover Mike Kooyman\u2019s Old Sugar Mill in Clarksburg several months ago, but I had not previously its in-house label, Clarksburg Wine Co.<\/a>, prior to this rendition of P.S. I Love You<\/i><\/b>. Though apparently concentrating more on their white varietals, particularly the once-ubiquitous Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg comported themselves admirably with their locally-sourced 2010 Petite Sirah<\/b>.
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Other Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font> revelations pouring here included Michael James\u2019 Hidden Oak<\/a> with a notably low alcohol (12.87%) 2009 Petite Sirah<\/b>, and PaZa, a portmanteau of owners Pamela and Zane Dobson\u2019s names, with their 2011 Petite Sirah <\/b>from Placer County. I admit I am decidedly ambivalent about the name Red Soles<\/a>\u2014at least, it\u2019s not another sappy canine label or Jack Welch tribute\u2014but have no reservations about their 2011 Estate Petite Sirah<\/b> from Paso Robles. And I am indebted to Healdsburg\u2019s Handal-Denier<\/a>, not only for their exquisite 2010 Alexander Valley Petite Sirah<\/b> but for introducing me to the above-mentioned pioneers at Nico and Mora Estate.
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I hadn\u2019t encountered boutique producer Burt Street Cellars<\/a> before Ros\u00e9 by the Bay<\/a> afforded the opportunity to sample their 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Ros\u00e9<\/b> and a sneak sip of their 2012 Chardonnay Carneros-Sonoma<\/b>. I also encountered Ten Acre Winery<\/a> for what would be the first of many times, as they poured their striking 2012 Ros\u00e9 of Pinot Noir<\/b> here.
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I suppose it was only fitting that both serendipities from this year\u2019s West of West Wine Festival<\/a> derived their nomenclature from the tropospheric intensity that characterizes this coastal AVA. Appropriately named 32 Winds Wine<\/a> provided a veritable tour de force<\/i> with their quartet of superb wines, starting with their 2011 Lucky Well U. V. Chardonnay<\/b> and its sister 2011 Lucky Well U. V. Pinot Noir<\/b><\/font><\/font>. As striking was their 2010 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b>, while the 2010 Maestro Pinot Noir<\/b><\/font><\/font> blew the rest of this lineup away. Gros Ventre Cellars<\/a> (which\u2014oops!\u2014 I mistranslated as \u201cbig wind\u201d) <\/i>did wind up making a similarly impressive debut with three distinct bottlings, a 2011 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast<\/b>, the 2011 First Born Pinot Noir<\/b>, and a superb 2011 Campbell Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b>.
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Amid all the revisits to events the past few months, a truly outstanding debut took place at the Press Club: Wines of Danger<\/a>. This intimate gathering brought together twenty relatively boutique-scale producers, the majority of which had been hitherto unknown to Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>. Some were outstanding, others admittedly lackluster, yet all were laudable in their efforts to produce wines of distinctive character. Ed Ulshafer\u2019 and Brian Carlson\u2019s self-referential Brian Edward<\/a> poured quite amiable renditions of a 2011 Carneros Chardonnay<\/b> and 2009 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, blended with 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, while Michael Simons\u2019 Monterey-based Comanche Cellars<\/a> dazzled with a wide array of varietals, including their 2010 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir<\/b>, blended from the Hahn, Paraiso and Sarmento Vineyards, plus a striking 2010 San Antonio Valley Tempranillo Pierce Ranch Vineyard<\/b>, and superb bottlings of both the 2009 San Antonio Valley Cabernet Franc Jolon Vineyard<\/b> and 2009 Arroyo Seco Syrah Mission Ranch Vineyard<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Eclecticism was the rule of thumb for Eric Laumann, whose Cambiata<\/a> label derives its name from the polyphonic idiom rendering an \u201cadded tonal dimension that occurs when two chords momentarily share
\nproperties, so that the transition has greater depth and mellifluence\u201d<\/i>; hence, the contrast of his 2012 Cambiata Albari\u00f1o <\/b>and 2009 Cambiata Tannat<\/b>. <\/font><\/font>This theory of musical counterpoint, <\/font><\/font>first cited in the musical treatise Gradus ad Parnassum<\/i><\/b> by Johann Joseph Fux, highly influenced Beethoven, to which Laumann alludes in his tributary label, Ludwig<\/a> and its 2009 Hammerklavier<\/b>, a unique blend of Pinot Noir and Dornfelder. And not to appear harmonious in his nomenclature, Laumann\u2019s third label draws its inspiration from the surfing technique known as Rail 2 Rail<\/a>, an apt metaphor for his unbridled 2011 Rail 2 Rail Zinfandel<\/b>, a bottling of Old Vine Zinfandel grown in Lodi, the legendary riparian outpost for longboard enthusiasts! <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Taking matters to a literal level, Michael and Wendy Trotta\u2019s Eclectic Wines<\/a> showcased their inaugural vintage with a sublime 2012 Viognier Dry Creek Valley<\/b>, a charming 2012 Vermentino Dunnigan Hills<\/b>, and their 2011 Tempranillo Sierra Foothills<\/b>. In a similar vein, while there may be nothing allusive in the name Lars Bj\u00f6rkman and Molly Hill designated for their Mt. Veeder boutique, Grow Wines<\/a> did impress with their estate grown 2011 Ruhl Vineyard Chardonnay<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
While
\nwe are in stealth mode, I am not at liberty to disclose details on an inchoate venture\u2014not wine-related, but
\npotentially capable of funding Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>\u2014but I can concede that I was quite astonished that the URL for the name we chose remained available, despite deriving our moniker from a frequently-invoked, albeit semi-scatological, term from the vernacular. So, too, does it surprise me that Cuv\u00e9e Wine Cellars<\/a> had not been trademarked generations before Paul Rogerville founded his San Mateo County cooperative<\/font><\/font>. Though I would have preferred a greater adherence to the level of selectivity this name implies, I nonetheless enjoyed all five wines in their lineup, starting with the 2012 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc<\/b>. From the previous vintage, Paul poured a 2011 Russian River Valley Chardonnay<\/b><\/font> and a 2011 Pinot Noir Saralee\u2019s Vineyard<\/b>, while dipping back two previous cycles and outside Sonoma for his 2009 El Dorado Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b> and the 2009 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b><\/font>.
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Too many possibilities come to mind if I try to conjure the origins for the name Farm Life & Massa<\/a>. Organically grown by Patrick Ridder, these wines contrasted widely, from a tepid 2012 Massa Sauvignon Blanc <\/b>to a more energized 2009 Farm Life Red Wine<\/b>, a Syrah\/Petite Sirah blend. On the other hand, Maboroshi<\/a> is clearly derived from \u5e7b\u306e\u5149<\/font><\/font><\/b>, a term meaning \u201ctrick of light;\u201d nothing phantasmic, however, about the exceptional wines Tom and Rebecca Kisaichi produce here, including the 2012 Maboroshi Los Carneros Chardonnay<\/b> and an equally compelling 2008 Maboroshi Russian River Pinot Noir<\/b>. Under their Rebecca K label, the Kisaichis excelled with a NV Rebecca K North Coast M\u00e9thode Champenoise Brut<\/b> and a superb 2008 Rebecca K Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir<\/b>.
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With only one label but two states of origin, Molly Williams and Ryan Hodgins of M Autumn<\/a> contrasted their Californian 2008 Napa Valley Merlot<\/b> with their Oregonian 2009 Johnson Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/b>. No such peregrinations demarcated Jillian Johnston\u2019s Onesta<\/a>, a Lodi\u2014focused startup that debuted here with a splendid 2012 Grenache Blanc<\/b>, a strikingly-focused 2012 Cinsault Ros\u00e9 Bechthold Vineyard<\/b>, and her outstanding 2011 Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard<\/b><\/font><\/font>.
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As more and more wineries are now releasing their 2011 Pinots, I am beginning to view this vintage as a true test of a winemaker\u2019s craft. Some have proven quite iffy; others, like the 2011 Pinot Noir Tudor House Vineyards<\/b> and the 2011 Pinot Noir Dolinsek Vineyards<\/b>, both Russian Rivers Valley selections from Patrick Murray\u2019s Paro<\/a>, proved utterly wonderful. Murray also added a 2010 Pinot Noir Sunnyside Vineyard<\/b> from Sonoma Mountain and a well-balanced 2010 Ros\u00e9 <\/b>to his lineup here.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
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PALE FIRE <\/font><\/b><\/font>
(A Poem in Four Cantos)
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     CANTO 1 <\/font><\/b>
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     I was the shadow of the waxwing slain
     By the false azure in the windowpane
     I was the smudge of ashen fluff–and I
     Lived on, flew on, in the reflected sky,
     And from the inside, too, I’d duplicate
     Myself, my lamp, an apple on a plate:
     Uncurtaining the night, I’d let dark glass
     Hang all the furniture above the grass,
     And how delightful when a fall of snow
     Covered my glimpse of lawn and reached up so
     As to make chair and bed exactly stand
     Upon that snow, out in that crystal land!<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/td>\n

Over the year<\/font><\/font><\/font>s<\/font><\/font><\/font>, this blog has frequently contained Gogolian allusions<\/font><\/font><\/font>, not to mention the occasional Nabokovian echo, and so it was most delightful to meet Waxwing Wine Cellars<\/a>, an ornithological \u0153nological <\/font><\/font><\/font>endeavor. Shades of John Shade? Alas, my citation of Pale Fire <\/i><\/b>fell flat with winemaker Scott Sisemore whose forte lies with red grapes that favor the windswept chill of coastside Sonoma. A very strong 2011 Pinot Noir Spring Hill Vineyard <\/b>was complemented by both the 2011 Syrah Sonoma Coast<\/b> and an exceptional 2012 Pinot Noir Ros\u00e9 Spring Hill Vine
\nyard<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>. On the other hand<\/font>, I couldn\u2019t place either reference from City Cellars<\/a>, here pouring their 2008 Lopa<\/b>, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon & 40% Tempranillo\u200b and the 2009 Gianna<\/b>, a Malbec\/Petit Verdot medley.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

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Sometimes, an transparent allusion creates an impression<\/font> different from what it hopes to convey, as with Calistoga\u2019s People\u2019s Wine Revolution<\/a>, a boutique producer that sounds as if it ought to be nestled among Berkeley\u2019s urban wineries. And while their labels tend more towards whimsy, one could certainly taste a proletariat<\/font> edge to their quartet of vintages poured here, starting with the 2012 The People\u2019s Viognier Salem Ranch <\/b>from Dry Creek Valley and their Lodi-grown 2012 The Peo<\/b>ple\u2019s Grenache<\/b>. Meanwhile, t<\/font>heir unadorned 2011 Syrah Massa Ranch<\/b> noticeably contrasted with the 2008 Bea\u2019s Knees Petite Sirah<\/b>, their vanguard bottling.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
No pretense could be attributed to Sabrine Rodems\u2019 Scratch<\/a>, a Monterey project sourcing its fruit from both Arroyo Seco and the Santa Lucia Highlands. Certainly, both her 2011 Riesling Arroyo Seco<\/b> and 2011 Gr<\/b>enache Arroyo Seco<\/b> proved competent wines, but the 2011 Scratch Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands<\/b> showcased her viticultural prowess. Further north, it took quite a bit of Internet sleuthing to uncover the Russian Ridge<\/a> that gives rise to Russian Ridge Winery<\/a>. Not far from the San Carlos cooperative where these wines are bottled, one can find the picturesque preserve that graces their label, an underdeveloped<\/font> 3,137–<\/font>acre expanse <\/font>that comprises a major asset<\/font> of the Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District. In keeping with the pristine beauty of this locale, their wines express a straightforward portrait of their individual terroirs, from the elegant 2012 Pinot Grigio Chiles Valley <\/b>and 2011 Chardonnay Napa<\/b> to the striking 2011 Petite Sirah Paso Robles<\/b> and the 2011 Syrah Santa Cruz Mountains.<\/b> <\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> <\/div>\n
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In contrast, Site<\/a> <\/font><\/font>derives its name from a place as generic as it is obvious, much like the delightfully understated road sign puns from acclaimed muralist Rigo 23<\/a> adorning numerous San Francisco landmarks. Maverick Adelaida<\/a> winemaker Jeremy Weintraub showcased five of Site bottlings from an assortment of Central Coast vineyards, starting with his superb 2012 Roussanne Stolpman Vineyard<\/b> and his 2012 Viognier Larner Vineyard<\/b>.<\/p>\n
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J<\/font><\/font>eremy<\/font> also crafted a 2012 Grenache Larner Vineyard <\/b>and an equally-appealing 2012 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard<\/b>, but his signature effort had to have been the lush, compelling 2012 Syrah Larner Vineyard<\/b><\/font>.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

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I truly wish there had been more events that offered such a range new discoveries for Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font>. As enjoyable as I have always found the Russian River Valley\u2019s Single Vineyard Night<\/a>, since La Follette<\/a>\u2019s assistant winemaker and effervescent new mother Simone Sequeira<\/a> guided me through their inaugural event at the then-C. Donatiello Winery<\/a> a few years back, the sole revelation this year came from Via Giusti Wines<\/a>, a single-selection wine project debuting their 2011 Russian River Pinot Noir<\/b>. Formerly partnered with Paso Robles\u2019 Grand Tasting Tour<\/a>, the annual Lamb Jam Tour<\/a> did offer me the chance finally to meet Grace Patriot<\/a>, a Sierra Foothills winery with Dartmouth<\/a> roots, here featuring their 2012 Riesling<\/b> alongside a striking blend of Tempranillo and Graciano, bearing the portmanteau of 2009 Tempriano<\/b> and a Cabernet Sauvignon\/Syrah m\u00e9lange whimsically labeled the 2007 Aboriginal<\/b>. No
\nt from Oregon, Napa Valley\u2019s Corvalle<\/a> poured their 2011 Framework<\/b>, a Cabernet Sauvignon tempered with both Merlot and Syrah.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n

Canoe Ridge<\/a> is a Horse Heaven Hills holding from Precept Wine<\/a>, one of the largest wine holding companies on the West Coast, but a relative anomaly with its focus on Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. Like Leslie Rudd\u2019s Vintage Wine Estates<\/a> and Foley Family Wines<\/a>, its rivals in the current Mergers & Acquisition market, Precept gives wide latitude to its subsidiaries;<\/font> this autonomy manifested itself admirably in four wines Canoe Ridge offered in complement to the featured lamb entr\u00e9es: the 2012 Expedition Pinot Gris<\/b>, a superb 2011 Expedition Chardonnay<\/b> and 2011 Expedition Merlot<\/b>, and the 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>. Cayucos Cellars<\/font><\/a>, an independent winery from the Paso Robles AVA, offered three remarkably well-aged selections: a 2007 Chardonnay<\/b>, their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, and the 2007 Syrah<\/b>, matched alongside their 2005 De<\/b>vils Gate Zinfandel<\/b> and two curiously-named multivintage blends of Grenache and Petit Sirah, the Devils Gate x\/ix<\/b> and its fraternal twin, the Devils Gate ix\/x<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
A trip to Shone Farm<\/a>, the producing winery and farm that serves as outdoor laboratory for \u0153nology studies at<\/font> Santa Rosa Junior College<\/a> for the for the premier of The Press Democrat<\/a>\u2019s North Coast Wine Challenge<\/font><\/font><\/a> offered quite a number of familiar faces, albeit with introductions to a handful of wineries<\/font> . I had tried on numerous occasions to visit Amista<\/a> as I wandered along Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg, and so was more than happy to begin this event with Mike & Vicky Farrow\u2019s sparkling wine, the NV Blanc de Blanc Mornings<\/b>ong Vineyard<\/b>. Here they also poured an impressive 2010 Chardonnay<\/b> Mornings<\/b>ong Vineyard<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> and their 2008 Syrah<\/b> Mornings<\/b>ong Vineyard<\/b>, with promises t<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>o share their full lineup when I finally do visit them. Also from Healdsburg, Estate 1856<\/a><\/font>, a family-held vineyard that antedates me by a full century, impressed with their 2010 Malbec <\/b><\/font><\/font>and 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, alongside their signature 2010 Bordeaux Blend<\/b>, a Cabernet Sauvignon rounded out with 10% Petit Verdot and 14% Malbec.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
I had only recent encountered cardiac surgeon Ramzi Derek\u2019s Grapeheart<\/font><\/a> at a WineLu<\/a>v tasting, but was pleased to resample their 2010 The Beat,<\/b> a proprietary blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Syrah and 17% Cabernet Franc. A<\/font>lso not new, but oddly missing from these pages: Trombetta<\/a>, which I had met at the 2012 West of West Festival<\/b><\/i>, revisited here with their 2010 Pinot Noir Gap\u2019s Crown Vineyard,<\/b> an outstanding wine that managed to be overshadowed by their exquisite 2011 Pinot Noir Gap\u2019s Crown Vineyard<\/b>.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Rob + Kat McDonald\u2019s Art + Farm Wines<\/a> produces a number of quirky labels that belie a solid viticultural heritage. Here they poured their 2011 The Girls in the Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc<\/b>,and the 2011 The Girls in the Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font>, both single vineyard expressions, as well as the<\/font> 2011 Circadia Chardonnay<\/b>. Another seemingly unprepossessing venture, Thirty Seven Winery<\/a>, situated at the Gateway to Carneros, provides yet another showcase for winemakers May-Britt and Denis Malbec, here featuring both their 2009 Pinot Noir <\/b>and 2010 Chardonnay<\/b><\/font>. And to my infinite <\/font>surprise, they are finally making a Malbec here, as well!
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An intimate return<\/font><\/font> to Fort Mason<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> from the Sta. Rita Hills Winegrowers Alliance<\/a> brought both Lindley<\/a>, with its 2011 Pinot Noir La Lomita Vineyard<\/b> and Chardonnay specialists Liquid Farm<\/a> into the Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> fold. Along with a 2012 Ros\u00e9 Vogelzang Vineyard<\/b>, Liquid Farm produced a trifecta of Chards: the 2011 White Hill Chardonnay<\/b>, the 2011 Golden Slope Chardonnay, <\/b>and their showstopper, the 2011 FOUR Chardonnay<\/b>, a combination from Bent Rock, Radian, Huber, and Clos Pepe vineyards. If only Huber Cellars<\/a> had attended, as was billed, I might have finally sampled their signature Dornfelder!<\/font>
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Later on, Fort Mason hosted the Anderson Valley Trade Tasting<\/a>, an attenuated version of Taste of Mendocino<\/a> that still managed to yield a handful of surprises. Philo\u2019s Angel Camp Vineyard<\/a> made a spectacular, if not stunning debut, with its tricolore<\/i>\u2014red, white, ros\u00e9\u2014of estate-grown Pinot Noirs: the 2011 Pinot Noir<\/b>, the rare, excruciating-to-produce 2012 Pinot Noir Blanc,<\/b> and a dry 2012 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir<\/b>. Had winemaker Jon Keyes the bandwidth, they could have added an orange version, as well, as exemplified by the 2011 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir<\/b> Foursight<\/a> poured here: a wine with limited skin contact that visually resembled the true orange color of Pinot Gris. Though I have tasted with Foursight on numerous occasions, I\u2019d be remiss in not noting the wonderful 2011 S\u00e9millon<\/b> and the intriguing 2010 Zero New Oak Pinot Noir<\/b> they also poured here.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
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Jackson Family Wines<\/a> has also been a major player in Mergers & Acquisitions in the wine industry, with an aggressive program to acquire established vineyards like Saralee\u2019s in Windsor, as well as Zena Crown and Gran Moraine in Oregon, since the death of founder Jess Jackson in 2011. In addition to the 14 new properties (2,800 acres) <\/i>Barabara Banke has added to her late husband\u2019s portfolio, she has continued to launch single-vineyard projects like Cardinale<\/a> throughout the West Coast, represented this day by three different properties. Champs de R\u00eaves<\/a> featured their 2011 Pinot Noir Boone Ridge <\/b>Vineyard, while its thematic equestrian kin,<\/font> WindRacer<\/a>, poured both its 2010 Anderson Valley Chardonnay <\/b>and 2010 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir<\/b>. Named in tribute to the progeny of Banke\u2019s prized thoroughbred Maggy Hawk<\/a>, the 2010 Jolie<\/b> comes from a <\/font>Pinot Noir <\/font>Clone 115, while the 2010 Unforgettable<\/b> features Clone 667.<\/font><\/div>\n
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It seems that I have forgotten to include Knez Winery<\/a> in previous posts, but found both the 2010 Demuth Chardonnay<\/b> and the 2011 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir<\/b> poured here more than memorable. Not that I intend any short shrift to their 2011 Cerise Pinot Noir<\/b>, either! And though I\u2019ve often cited Scharffenberger Cellars<\/a> for their sparkling wines, this tasting provided my introduction to their still wines: the 2011 Carpe Diem Pinot Noir<\/b> and the 2012 Carpe Diem Chardonnay<\/b>.<\/font><\/div>\n
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The most innovative winery here had to have been Lichen Estate<\/a>, an organic seven-acre planting in Boonville. Their 2012 Pinot Noir<\/b> proved straightforward, but their unconventional 2012 Les Pinots Noir & Gris<\/b>, a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Pinot Gris, truly struck my fancy. Adding to the intrigue, their NV Solera Pinot Noir<\/b>, here a preliminary blend of the 2011 and 2012 vintages, but portending to become more and more striking as subsequent years are added to the mix.<\/font><\/div>\n
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Sostevinobile<\/b><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font> wrapped up formal tasting season for 2013 with a repeat of last November\u2019s Third Friday marathon. If only Elon Musk had already launched his Hyperloop<\/a>! Imagine attending a Pinot tasting in San Francisco, staying until its conclusion, taking a leisurely shower and changing, hopping into a Hyperloop pod and arriving in Napa Valley 11 minutes later to attend a four-hour Taste & Sip extravaganza at The Culinary Institute of America<\/a> (CIA<\/b>), then hopping back into the pod and returning to the City before midnight (all the while thumbing y
\nour nose at the St. Helena cop who parks outside the Greystone driveway every day)<\/i>. Oh well! Perhaps in 2113!
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Nonetheless, the third annual Flavor! Napa Valley<\/a> again featured the Appellation Trail, a bit pared down from its inaugural rendition, with fewer of the most prominent wineries and restaurants participating and scant sightings of the Valley\u2019s notables in attendance. And while there were still a handful of wine labels to uncover, the more compelling aspect of this event was the chance to sample from a number of storied Napa restaurants and food purveyors. Like Redd Wood<\/a>. And Morimoto Napa<\/a>. Auberge du Soleil<\/a>. And Morimoto Napa. <\/font>Press St. Helena<\/a>. And Morimoto Napa. <\/font>Oenotri<\/a>. And Morimoto Napa. <\/font>Silverado Resort & Spa<\/a>. And Morimoto Napa. Bistro Jeanty<\/a> And Morimoto Napa.<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
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So perhaps I overdid it at the Morimoto station; nevertheless, my primary focus remained on the wine discoveries. Jason Valenti, with the help of Philippe Melka, showcased his Adamvs<\/a> label, a biodynamic Howell Mountain project focused solely on Cabernet Sauvignon. I found myself equally captivated by their 2010 T\u00e9res<\/b>, a blend of Estate Cabernet with other Napa Valley fruit, and the to-be-released 2010 Quintvs<\/b>, a blend of five distinct estate vineyard blocks. Nearby, John Skupny\u2019s Lang & Reed<\/a> joined the growing ranks of vintners producing extraordinary Cab Francs with his 2011 Two-Fourteen Cabernet Franc Napa Valley<\/b>. <\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
Montes is a Chilean conglomerate producing wines much in the same mode as Cupcake<\/a> or Paul Hobbs<\/a>, not restricting themselves to the confines of national boundaries but sourcing varietals from the terroirs and appellations they see befitting their wine program. Their new Napa Angel<\/a> label debuted here with their easy-to drink 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/b>, a combination of Yountville, Oak Knoll, and Coombsville fruit, and the 2008 Aurelio\u2019s Selection<\/b>, a Cabernet focused on Oak Knoll and Yountville. With the changing of the guard after the death of Marie Nichelini-Irwin, I felt Nichelini<\/a> had essentially become a new label; however, their signature 2012 Old Vine Muscadelle de Boredelais<\/b>, formerly (and preferably) <\/i>known as Sauvignon Vert, remained, if memory serves me, true to form.<\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
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Under the tutelage of acclaimed winemaker Marco DiGiulio, Adam Braustein crafted a delightful, multiclone expression of the 2010 JBV Cabernet Sauvignon<\/span>, an estate grown bottling for Jack Brooks Vineyard<\/a>. And I was quite pleased to meet former <\/span>Opus One <\/a>winemaker Kian Takavoli and partake of the austerely named<\/span> 2010 Red Wine Napa Valley<\/b> he crafted for <\/span>Patel Winery<\/a> on Silverado Trail, a Merlot-dominant Right Bank homage tempered with Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. And I most assuredly would have loved the offerings from <\/span>Stone the Crows<\/a> solely for their dispassionate nomenclature, but cottoned to both the <\/span>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Three Twins Vineyard<\/b> <\/b>(no relation to Terra Linda\u2019s much-heralded organic Three Twins Ice Cream<\/a> label) <\/i>and its evolving successor, the <\/span>2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Three Twins Vineyard<\/b>. <\/span><\/font><\/div>\n
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The Appellation Trail Tasting<\/i><\/b> is always a welcome challenge to navigate and complete, but the true test of the day was making a safe and relatively unfettered drive to Greystone after the annual Pinotfest<\/a> tasting at Farallon. Many have heard me complain of late of Pinot fatigue\u2014not surprising with 12% of California\u2019s vineyards, plus nearly 40% of Oregon\u2019s acreage, planted to Pinot Noir, and a veritable overload of Pinot tastings throughout the latter half of the year. Still this is always a must-attend event, and will remain so, even if it continues to fall on the same day as Flavor! Napa Valley.<\/font><\/div>\n
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One of the hallmarks of this tasting is the wide selections of Oregon wineries on hand, posing a
\nfar easier commute across San Francisco than the 10 hour trek to the Willamette Valley. And while this event afforded me the opportunity to catch up with Tendril<\/a>, Domaine Serene<\/a>, Soter<\/a>, and Domaine Drouhin<\/a>, etc., as well as mingle numerous friends from Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands, and the myriad Sonoma appellations, the standout of the afternoon was the worst\u2014and best\u2014<\/font>Pinot producer in Napa\u2019s Rutherford AVA, El Molino<\/a>, pouring an exceptional 2010 <\/b><\/font>Rutherford<\/font><\/b> Pinot Noir<\/b> and its counterpoint, the 2011 Rutherford Chardonnay<\/b>. <\/font><\/div>\n
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Lamentably, however, this event featured only a single newcomer, Paul Lato Wines<\/a>, which nonetheless dazzled with two selections from a stable (several of his labels allude to horse racing)<\/i> of nine distinct Pinots: the 2011 Pinot Noir C\u2019est La Vie Wenzlau Vineyard<\/b> (Sta. Rita Hills)<\/i> and the superb 2011 Pinot Noir Suerte Solomon Hills Vineyard<\/b> (Santa Maria Valley)<\/i>. This paucity of discoveries, however, wasn\u2019t necessarily a disappointment as, I confess, had primarily hied my way over to Farallon for the delectable Seared Duck-Gizzard <\/i>Confit and, particularly, the transcendant Duck-Gizzard <\/i>Meatballs that always highlight this tasting<\/font><\/font><\/font><\/font><\/div>\n
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Does the duck die nasty to render these delicacies? I\u2019ve never asked, though I am sure the process of procurement is nothing as heinous as the caged breeding and disemboweling involved in making <\/font><\/font>Pat\u00e9 Fois Gras. And while we\u2019re on the topic, let me close out the year with a premature resolution to once again let the grizzling on my grizzled visage return to its more luxuriant style\u2014not the <\/font>Methuselaic proportions of reinstated Duck Dynasty patriarch <\/font>Phil Robertson<\/a>, but more a quasi-revival<\/font> of last decade\u2019s efforts to transmogrify myself into a latter day Da Vinci<\/font>, adopting<\/font><\/i> an appearance to complement my numerous forays, inventive and intellectual, <\/font><\/font> and impending successes (to be detailed in subsequent entries here, as they coalesce) <\/i><\/font><\/font>that served to redeem a most challenging 2013.<\/font>
<\/font><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This past November marked a bit of a bittersweet milestone for Sostevinobile\u2014one which Your West Coast Oenophile seems a tad reluctant to concede at this stage\u2014as has been the situation with the preponderance of 2013 (in no small part from having been struck by an industrial truck while cycling back in March). So for now, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[44,6,4,16,45,55,47,43,42,7,11,54,17,51,50,49,2,8,38,14,41,46,9,19,48,13,37,53,3,52,24,33,5,27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-albarino","category-cabernet-franc","category-cabernet-sauvignon","category-chardonnay","category-cinsault","category-corvina","category-dolcetto","category-dornfelder","category-graciano","category-grenache","category-grenache-blanc","category-grignolino","category-malbec","category-molinara","category-moscato","category-negrara","category-petit-verdot","category-picpoul-blanc","category-pinot-gris","category-pinot-noir","category-riesling","category-rondinella","category-roussanne","category-sauvignon-blanc","category-sauvignon-vert","category-semillon","category-sparkling-wine","category-st-macaire","category-syrah","category-tannat","category-tempranillo","category-vermentino","category-viognier","category-zinfandel"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.sostevinobile.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}