Redux: So many tastings. So little time.

Oh, if only there were four (maybe five) of Your West Coast Oenophile to crank out this column! Actually, if I were quintuplets, I would have one of me oversee and manage the development of Sostevinobile, another liaise with the 8,000+ wine labels in California, Washington, and Oregon, a third run the wine programs at all of our (eventual) locations, have Marco Quattro handle funding, and let the one who drew the short straw sit in front of a keyboard and churn the daily prose here. Not that I would ever demean the pleasures of the scribe.
I shouldn’t really apologize for being so far behind—after all, if July’s weather has decided it can show up in October, so, too, can my reviews and witticisms roll in at a languid pace. And so the events I attended in lieu of journeying East for Livia’s ottantenario now occupy the forefront of this blog, commencing with the Grand Tasting for a new annual celebration.
Held at the Westin St. Francis, Sonoma in the City brought together an impressive array of wineries from the county’s various sub-AVAs. The alphabetical listings in the program, however, held little correlation to the actual floor plan of the exhibit room, but being the first production of this event, its organizers can be forgiven for the confusion in locating the tables I had earmarked (I suspect I might have been able to cover 50% more of the wineries, had navigating the layout not been so challenging). The first winery I was able to find turned out to be Argot, a whimsical Sonoma venture I had not previously encountered. Predominantly focused on Bennett Valley fruit, they began their tasting with the 2009 Happenstance, a deft blend of 70% Roussanne from the acclaimed Saralee’s Vineyard with 30% Chardonnay. This same Bennett Valley Chardonnay comprised the 2009 Old Habits, a wine on par with their 2007 The Preamble, a straightforward Bennett Valley Syrah. Their final offering, the 2009 Over the Moon displayed the ample potential Bennett Valley offers for Pinot Noir.
The program called them Draxton. The parent venture, however, calls itself Vintners Signatures. in contrast, the website lists the label as El Roy. Despite this conundrum, the wines proved uniformly quite good, starting with a crisp 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley. I liked the more modest 2009 El Roy Chardonnay and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley both, but found 2007 Malbec Alexander Valley clearly preferable
Even though I have been familiar with Saintsbury’s Garnet since the early 1980s, I had not realized that it had been spun off as an independent label and acquired earlier this year by David Biggar’ and Tom Peterson’s Vintage Point, a Sonoma partnership that also markets such favorites as Educated Guess and Layer Cake. To be honest, I have not always been a fan of this approach to crafting Pinot, but was surprisingly pleased by the 2009 Carneros Pinot Noir, especially considering that it represents a 10,000 case undertaking. On the other hand, I was well aware that the venerable MacRostie label had been sold to Lion Nathan, an Australian/New Zealand-based importer/producer that also owns Oregon’s esteemed Argyle Winery; still under the tutelage of Steve MacRostie, the 2008 Sonoma Chardonnay remained a most pleasant wine.
I’m not sure how I’d missed Red Car before this event—Director of Sales and Viticulture Paul Sequeira is married to my good friend Simone Sequeira of La Follette—but perhaps I may have confused it with Red Truck, which has been subsumed by the good folks at JFJ Bronco. Nonetheless, Red Car sits at the proverbial antipode to Ceres’ œnology, meticulously producing restrained, unfettered wines from the Sonoma Coast. Befitting wineries that share Red Car’s æsthetic, their lineup focuses on Chardonnay, Syrah, and Pinot Noir. Their entry-level line, Boxcar, featured a palatable 2009 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast, while both the 2009 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast and the 2008 Syrah Sonoma Coast from their Trolley series pleased immensely. I can’t quite decipher the nomenclature from their eclectic Reserve lineup, but was just as enthralled with the 2009 Aphorist, a Pinot Noir from Bartolomei Vineyard.
One of my all-time favorite aphorists was the self-proclaimed MetaPhys Ed Teacher, who memorably pronounced “It’s not whether you win or lose. It just is.” This philosophy parallels Sostevinobile’s efforts to stay non-judgmental about the various approaches to making wine different winerires here on the West Coast practice (with the caveat that these efforts reflect a sincere attempt to craft quality wine, not simply move quantities of mass-produced juice). This straightforward approach is exemplified in hundreds of wineries I encounter, including my discovery of Rockpile’s Bruliam Wines, where Brian Overstreet and his wife Kerith, a former general surgeon turned œnologist, handcraft a trio of vineyard-designated Pinots, alongside a stellar 2009 Rocky Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel. Sourced from The Swale, an exclusive ¾ acre block of this prized Rockpile vineyard, this limited release derives exclusively from the St. Peters Church Heritage Zinfandel clone. Dedication, precision, devotion—it just is.
Another discovery here, Bennett Valley’s Sable Ridge, concentrates its efforts on Syrah. Sonoma in the City provided an exquisite platform for the winery to contrast its current release, the 2008 Syrah Bennett Valley with its well-rounded elder sibling, the 2002 Syrah Bennett Valley. Both proved immensely appealing in their own right. I had had a number of occasions lately to sample from Flanagan Vineyards, but somehow had managed to arrive right after they had packed up. Under the tutelage of Philippe Melka, this Bennett Valley winery finally managed to impress me with both their 2008 Syrah and an equally balanced 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon.
From there, my task became to navigate as many familiar wineries as I could fit in logistically, with the scant amount of time and confusing floor plan. First up, I visited with the redoubtable Acorn Winery, but rather than bore dedicated Sostevinobile readers with my recurrent plea to sample their Dolcetto, I’ll merely highlight both their 2007 Cabernet Franc Alegría Vineyards and, of course, the 2007 Sangiovese Alegría Vineyards. Similarly reaffirming the quality of their craft was longtime familiar Peay Vineyards, ably serving up both their 2009 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast and a highly memorable 2009 Pinot Noir Pomarium Estate Sonoma Coast. Another of Peay’s confrères from the West of West Festival that promoted the West Sonoma Coast Vintners, fellow Kissie Steven Singer’s Baker Lane held its own with its 2008 Estate Vineyard Syrah.
An equally appealing 2007 Cardiac Hill Syrah from Jemrose stood between their crisp 2009 Egret Pond Viognier and the compelling 2008 Foggy Knoll Grenache. And I certainly found myself exuberant about Bill Canihan’s 2007 Exuberance Estate, his special reserve bottling of his Syrah. Arguably, however, the benchmark for Syrah came from Westerhold, which paired two equally stunning bottlings, the 2007 Estate Syrah Bennett Valley and a pre-release of its successive vintage, both singular efforts from this esteemed family boutique. And although Schug is primarily regarded for its Pinots, I opted only to sample the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley this go-around.
As noted in previous postings, I have often been impressed with Ray D’Argenzio’s Italian bottlings, particularly his ongoing efforts to produce a California Amarone. Today, however, his offerings included only his more mainstream Sonoma wines, of which I happily partook in the 2006 Zinfandel Russian River Valley and the 2006 Petite Sirah Russian River Valley. Still, I was not to be denied my predilection for my ancestral varietals, starting with a pair of wines from Muscardini. As per usual, I greatly enjoyed the 2008 Tesoro, Mike’s proprietary blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, but his real gem this afternoon was the new 2009 Sangiovese, an exquisite rendition of the grape.
Meanwhile, the olive oil virtuosos at DaVero showed just how adept they can be at vinification, starting with their 2008 Sangiovese Dry Creek Valley. I had hoped they would have poured their famed Sagrantino here, but its absence was mitigated by the superb 2007 Rosso di Bea, a miscela of Sagrantino and Sangiovese in equal proportions. DaVero’s second label displayed both skill and diversity, starting with the 2008 Falco Barbera, as well as with a non-Italian red, the 2008 Falco Zinfandel. Their versatility also extended into the white realm, with a delightful 2009 Falco Vermentino and their special 2010 Falco So’ Bianco, a complex blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Musqué, with just a touch of Riesling.
One would think that Ray Teldeschi’s Del Carlo Winery would produce Italian varietals, and certainly with his acclaim for Zinfandel, Primitivo would not constitute a stretch, but for now, I was sufficed by his 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley and, naturally, the 2007 Old Vine Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley. Another strong showing for Zin came from Everett Ridge, with their small production 2007 Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley. Still, Gracianna came close to stratospheric with their amazing 2009 Zinfandel Russian River Valley. And while this extraordinary wine proved their forte, I found both the 2009 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley and its immediate predecessor more than compelling, while greatly enjoying the 2010 Suzanne’s Blend Chardonnay.
Just as Westerhold focuses on a single varietal & bottling, Garden Creek Ranch annually produces around 500 cases of its proprietary Bordeaux blend. Here I had a definite preference for the 2004 Tesserae, though the 2005 vintage certainly displayed nothing to scoff at! Also with an attenuated inventory, Hidden Ridge features quite possibly the most vertically daunting vineyard to harvest in California. And yet its 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon 55% Slope (!) presents a wine that surpasses in its approachability.
At the other end of the spectrum, Hartford Family Winery offered a diverse range of exceptional wines. The 2007 Land’s End Pinot Noir tantalized with overtures of virtuosity I normally expect from their Pinot lineup, but their strong suit came from their Zins, of which I sampled three. Equally impressive were the 2009 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard and the 2009 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard, but the utter standout had to have been the non-specific 2009 Zinfandel Russian River Valley. Keeping pace, Hartford’s white wine portfolio featured a marvelous 2008 Stone Côte Chardonnay and three equally outstanding vintages from the Russian River Valley: the 2009 Four Hearts Chardonnay, the 2009 Fog Dance Chardonnay, and a superbly aged 2007 Laura’s Chardonnay.
Gracefully aging, too, was the 2002 Estate Pinot Noir from former Ambassador to Italy James Zellerbach’s Hanzell Vineyards. Ripe and ready now, the 2009 Pinot Noir Floodgate Vineyard from Cartograph exemplified this emerging vintage, while their 2010 Gewürztraminer Floodgate Vineyard proved equally appealing. Halfway between these vintages, the 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Laurel Glen affirmed why this sometimes obviated Glen Ellen producer has quietly remained a force with which to be reckoned for the past 30 years. Ironically, its only other selection, the 2007 Counterpoint makes no counterpoint but rather underscores Laurel Glen’s reputation for Sonoma Cabernet.
Oftentimes, trade tastings afford me the opportunity to sample wines outside of the varietals or blends for which a particular winery’s is customarily acclaimed. For example, I have typically turned to Iron Horse as a favored sparkling wine house since the mid-1980s, and certainly here the 2008 Classic Vintage Brut Green Valley was a paragon of their forte. Still, the 2008 Unoaked Chardonnay Green Valley displayed an equal facility with still wines. Similarly, I think of Mauritson as the pioneers of the Rockpile AVA—its Zins in particular. Here, their Zin offering was an inarguably excellent 2009 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley, alongside a more modest 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley. From their perch above Lake Sonoma, the 2008 Petite Sirah Rockpile Madrone Spring Vineyard displayed an utterly exquisite wine, while the 2007 Buck Pasture Red Wine exhibited all the finest qualities of a complex Meritage still 5-10 years away from peaking.
Other wineries here held close to their common perceived claim to fame. Kosta Browne offered a selection of their highly prized Pinots, including the 2009 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley and the 2009 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast. Their Sonoma Coast brethren at Littorai shone, as usual, with their 2008 Pinot Noir The Pivot Vineyard and the 2008 Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir.
Winding my way through the maze and the crowd that filled the ballroom at the St. Francis left scant time to visit with but two more wineries. With no overt agenda in mind, I drifted over to the table for Medlock Ames, one of the wineries most dedicated to sustainable practices throughout every aspect of their architecture and viticultural methodology. Their 2007 Red Bell Mountain Ranch ably blended Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, while the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley begged to remain bottled for at least four more years. As is wont to happen, the 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley from Fritz seemed quite drinkable now, while their coda to this tasting, the Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc blend known as the 2010 Vino Valpredo Bianca Mia, with its very Italianate bottle, easily won for the most intriguing name of the afternoon.
Ah, if there had only been more intrigue for Sostevinobile! But another day and another tasting loomed just on the horizon, and so I hastily pedaled back to Pacific Heights and rested up for the next day’s onslaught…
The next day saw me journey up to Rutherford for the annual Day in the Dust celebration. Returning to Francis Ford Coppola’s Rubicon Estate Winery for the first time in the post-Larry Stone era, I still marveled at seeing how this vast operation continues to evolve. With the majority of the winery’s low- to mid-range production shifted to the renovated Geyser Peak facility in Sonoma (renamed the Francis Ford Coppola Winery), this former Niebaum estate has gradually returned to the prestige of its pre-Heublein era, when John Daniels elevated Inglenook to the zenith of Napa Valley winemaking.
With Coppola having acquired the Inglenook brand, a revival of this historic label is now underway; in the meantime, the Rubicon wine program continues to flourish under winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt. Their Rutherford offerings here included two exceptional Cabernet Sauvignons, the 2008 Cask and their flagship, the 2008 Rubicon, both from estate grown organic vineyards.
Cabernet Sauvignon ruled the day here, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, which approximately ⅖ of the wineries also poured, and while one could find a sprinkling of Chardonnay, Merlot, Petite Sirah and even Pinot Noir, this annual tasting seemed the model of conformity, with the 2010 vintage showing for the whites and predominantly 2008 for the reds. And even though Sostevinobile has previously covered each of the wineries here on multiple occasions, it was still a pleasure to revisit with old friends and sample what they had brought. Exemplary of this trend was the MacDonnell Family’s Round Pond, a venture receiving much attention of late for both their wines and olive oil; upholding this reputation, their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford seemed both balanced yet young, while the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford tasted at its peak.
McGah Family’s MCG Cellars presented a similar lineup, though I found their 2008 Scarlet Cabernet Sauvignon preferable to the 2010 Green Sauvignon Blanc. Likewise, the ever-effusive John Robert Eppler poured the 2010 Fumé Blanc Rutherford and a most compelling 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford from his eponymous label.
Given the restrictions of this tasting to wines grown within the appellation, a number of the wineries could only pour a single wine, even though they may make several others throughout the Valley or in other California AVAs. St. Helena’s Conn Creek, one of Château Ste. Michelle’s Napa holdings, makes a number of prized wines, including its renowned Anthology, a blend which sources its Bordeaux components from Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain, Atlas Peak, Stags Leap District, St. Helena. and Yountville, as well as Rutherford; here, however, they elected only to pour a single-vineyard selection, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Hoshoni Vineyard.
The jury may be split on their asymmetric, Zebra-striped tasting room, but Flora Springs almost universally won over attendees with their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Hillside Reserve; Pedemonte, which makes a Sangiovese/Syrah blend I am yearning to try called Adagio, showcased their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, with equal aplomb. With no need to attract new converts, the ever-popular Piña Napa Valley poured their Rutherford selection, the 2008 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. In the same vein, St. Helena’s St. Clement made a strong showing with its noteworthy 2008 Star Vineyard Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon.
Wineries here with but a single annual bottling included Agustin Huneeus’ Quintessa, with a 2008 Quintessa that seemed far too structured and tight to be opened any time before 2017! In contrast, 12C Wines’ younger 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III proved suitable for drinking now. Though seemingly out of place, 94574 Brand (their name derives from the zip code for St. Helena) currently produces a single wine, the delectable 2010 Sauvignon Blanc.
A handful of wineries here only poured Sauvignon Blanc, including the 2010 Estate Sauvignon Blanc from Sawyer Cellars, whose vineyards date back to the plantings of George Yount in 1838, and Fleury Estate, with their rather exorbitantly priced 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford (then again, anyone who calls their Meritage F in Red warrants some accolades). Of course, with my friend Megan Skupny pouring, I was predisposed to liking Long Meadow Ranch’s offering, but their 2010 Sauvignon Blanc still managed to stand out on its own merits. And it was most interesting to compare the two Sauv Blancs that Alpha Omega proffered, with the 2010 1155 Rutherford taking the nod from the nonetheless appealing 2010 Sauvignon Blanc.
From thereon, definitive patterns were hard to identify. The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc from Frog’s Leap seemed a tad off from its usual excellence, but both the 2008 Merlot Rutherford and the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon continued to extol winemaker John Williams’ reputation. John’s ex-wife Julie Johnson’s Tres Sabores, as per usual, shone with its organically grown wines, here with a representative selection that included the 2008 Rutherford Zinfandel and both the 2008 Rutherford Perspective Cabernet Sauvignon and its preferable predecessor, the 2007 Rutherford Perspective Cabernet Sauvignon.
Jean-Charles Boisset’s Raymond Vineyards presented a stark contrast between their respectable 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford and the well-accomplished 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford. The Corley family’s Monticello Vineyards also contrasted different vintages for their Cabs, with remarkable parity between the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Tietjen Vineyard and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Corley Reserve. The true treat of the afternoon, however, had to have been the decade span of Heitz Cellar’s excellent 2005 Trailside Cabernet Sauvignon with the 1995 Trailside, a wine on the cusp of perfection.
I don’t normally associate Calistoga’s Frank Family with Rutherford, but after luxuriating in both their 2008 Winston Hill Red Wine and the 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, I will no longer permit such a gross oversight.On the other hand, Staglin’s organic estate wines all herald from the Rutherford Bench. Though greatly enjoying both, I gave a slight nod to their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford over the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford; somewhat surprisingly, their delectable 2009 Chardonnay Rutherford was the single selection of this varietal on hand here.
Freemark Abbey similarly poured a pair of their highly-rated Rutherford Cabs, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyard and their exceptional 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché Vineyard, both of which were established during the original stewardship of Jim Warren and his partners; alongside these gems, the winery poured a previously unfamiliar (to Sostevinobile) 2007 Petite Sirah Wood Ranch, a welcome contrast in this setting.
Another stark contrast to the prevalent orthodoxy here were the two Sonoma Pinots Sojourn Cellars offered sub rosa, their 2009 Pinot Noir Ridgetop Vineyard and the equally alluring 2009 Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard. Nonetheless, their foray into Napa produced a thoroughly enjoyable 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III. Contrary to their popular image, Trinchero Napa Valley broke from its multimillion case, mass produced White Zinfandel to showcase a pair of biodynamically farmed wines, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Chicken Ranch Vineyard and the 2008 Merlot Chicken Ranch Vineyard.
Rutherford Grove Winery also featured a Cab and Merlot, the 2007 Merlot Rutherford Bench and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Bench, then excelled with a crisp 2009 Sauvignon Rutherford Bench—all three wines antedating the predominant vintages of most wineries pouring at this event. Sullivan Vineyards inundated attendees with five separate selections from their 2008 vintages, though tasting through these Bordeaux reds was hardly a task. Not surprisingly, I preferred the 2008 Reserve Merlot Rutherford to the 2008 Estate Merlot, but actually cottoned to the 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon over its Reserve bottling. The standout, however, was their Meritage, the 2008 Coeur de Vigne Rutherford, a deft mélange of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.
Napa Valley is well-known for its multigenerational enterprises, exemplified here with the noteworthy 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Walther River Block from paterfamilias D. R. Stephens (winemaker Mike Hirby) and the even more enticing 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford from Hunnicutt, the solo venture of scion Justin Hunnicutt Stephens (winemaker Kirk Venge, a formidable legacy in his own right). With their own second generation at the helm, Honig maintained its considerable reputation with its latest 2009 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, coupled with an enticing 2009 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Departing from its original charter, the winery proved itself equally adept with its 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Campbell Vineyard.
Lieff Wines has always proven strong with both the unblended red and unblended white they produce; here the 2007 Auberge Road Cabernet Sauvignon proved a worthy compatriot to their distinctive 2010 Auberge Road Sauvignon Blanc. Péju, like Lieff, is best known for its female proprietor, and with her usual aplomb, HB Péju served up a fine 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Reserve and an extremely fine 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Reserve. Falling somewhere between this pair, the 2007 Cabernet Franc Reserve delivered a compelling rendition of this varietal. And proving herself a most adept one-woman operation, Amy Aiken brought a trio of wines from her Meander Wines, punctuated by the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford. Her 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Morisoli Vineyard proved itself slightly superior to the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, which blend 50% Morisoli fruit with 50% Cabernet from Lewelling Vineyard in St. Helena.
I haven’t visited Neal Family Vineyards in Angwin, but have sampled their Howell Mountain wines on several occasions. Their Rutherford selections here included the 2009 Rutherford Dust Vineyards Zinfandel, the 2005 Rutherford Dust Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, and, despite its peculiar spelling, the superb 2007 Rutherford Dust Vineyards Petite Syrah. On the other hands, I have toured Greg Martin’s painstakingly restored Martin Estate and was happy once again to sample his trio of Cabs: the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Bacchanal and the equally wondrous 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Collector’s Reserve and the 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.
Martin Estate revived the facilities of the former H. H. Harris Winery in Rutherford, which had ceased operation during Prohibition. The H. H. Harris Winery was most noted as the facility where George de Latour first made his wines for Beaulieu Vineyard. Although BV now sputters  as one of Diageo’s holdings, and, like Inglenook, has seen its brand utterly eroded following its earlier sale to Heublein, its Napa Cabernets still can be quite breathtaking. I am always impressed by the consistent quality of the 250,000 case production of its 2008 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon and was even more pleased here by the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Ranch#1 here. Primary kudos, however, belonged to its namesake 2008 Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that continues to be splendid 100 years after his first vintage!
At the pace I am writing, it will probably take me 100 years to complete my reviews of all the wines I am tasting for Sostevinobile, but perhaps salvation is in the near offing. The possible sale this week of my non-wine venture, ResCue™, may FINALLY afford me the resources to open our brick & mortar operations and allow me to delegate my blogging responsibilities to the Sostevinobile tasting panel.
Not that I won’t find reason to chime in every now and then…

 

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